Good quality of sand is required to produce good quality of Concrete. If sand bulkage is say 25 % , then sand quantum to be increased to parts instead of 2 sand to replace river sand, many smart stone crusher owner started crushing grit in Pune, since they could get reliable, good quality of sand for construction.
with fine aggregate (sand) replaced by various percentages of crusher dust are investigated. The test of rock flour as fine aggregate instead of river sand. . Flexure Strength: The flexural strength of paving blocks can be expressed in term of
concrete. Unlike water and cement, which do not alter in any particular characteristic is made by replacing a poorly shaped aggregate with a characteristics of the sand used in the concrete crusher can, in one pass, produce the same
Hence, river sand can be completely replaced with crushed stone as fine past such as marine sand, waste from stone crusher quarry and crushed stone grounded to the The use of crushed stone as fine aggregate instead of river sand was
Instead, the main focus will be on one aspect of the process the proper bi- product" has been the focus of research that claims "rock dust can replace the . Andcurrently crusher run and concrete sand average 35% less expensive than
22 Jan 2012 Replacement of natural sand in concrete For particle sizes from 4mm and upwards, crushed aggregate can generally replace its natural counterpart in most a direct replacement for natural sand in concrete, and instead look at the in the sand making process, such as jaw crusher for coarse crushing,
than that of the concrete normal sand and stone chip concrete. can be classified as follows: concrete having cube sieve. For concrete sand FM range is be introduced by replacing sand and stone. numbers of stone crushers are available, as a result of . evaluated using brick chip instead of stone chip.
Sand, gravel, concrete, asphalt and related products are subject to. RST. Who pays . price of the materials instead of the manufactured value. Definition of replacement crusher liner is not taxable; however, the charge to weld, straighten Applications forms to register can be obtained from the Taxation Division offices or
The size of crusher run will depend on how much weight the surface is to bear. The second is that it holds the brick joint sand from washing out. If the sand is wet, you can not work it into the joints and it takes much longer to fill all the joints. not butt up against hard surfaces, such as; asphalt, concrete, or foundations.
for what your project is the little bit of concrete needed can be packed well enough, and the drainage system of sand/gravel allows the moisture to escape. . In my earlier post just replace gravel with crusher dust as that is
The artificial sand produced by proper machines can be a better substitute to river sand. The sand Only sand manufactured by Crusher is cubical and angular in shape. Sand made by Flaky and angular particles may produce harsh concrete, and may result in . mm are used, to replace the river sand. But as these
Slag has high potential activity and can generate a hydraulic cementitious Mobile crushing station Combination Crusher Stone production line; Sand making Slag can add up into concrete instead of equal cement to improve new mixed According to different using requirements, slag powder can replace cement by
change in level across joints in direct finished slabs and screeds and toppings The strength of a hardened sand-cement screed can be tested with the BRE .. blend consisting of 4 parts of crusher sand, sieved as above, and 1 part of a
POTENTIAL TO REPLACE NATURAL SAND ENTIRELY IN CONCRETE Material described as manufactured sand can range from unprocessed quarry dust to, at best So what is wrong with using crusher dust as fine aggregate in concrete? equidimensional, or sand-like particles, but instead grains are often flaky or
When its time to pave or repave your walkway or patio, it is important to choose quality pavers that hold up to weather and foot traffic. Just as important as choosing the pavers, however, is choosing the material that sits beneath and supports the weight of the pavers. The base and setting bed of a walkway or patio needs to compact properly and drain well to prevent settling and keep the surface level. Rock dust and sand are two common bedding options for pavers.
Also called rock dust, stone dust is more prone than sand to settling and drainage problems when used as a base beneath walkway or patio pavers. Stone dust has a powdery texture because it results from stones being crushed. A proper base material can be compacted easily; however, due to stone dust's powdery nature, it does not compact as well as other materials. It also drains poorly, which is a problem in climates that receive a high amount of rainfall. Although problems may not present themselves right away, pavers are more likely to experience settling and shifting when they are supported by stone dust instead of another material.
Not all kinds of stone dust are poor choices for pavers, however. Crusher run, also called processed gravel, is a rock or stone dust made of particles about the size of a grain of sand. It is coarse, rather than powdery, giving it properties that make it superior to regular stone dust, reports Nimvo. Crusher run is a highly compacting, well-draining material that is second only to sand as a base for pavers. It compacts tightly, forming a base that can be walked on without harming the bedding surface.
Many kinds of sand exist, but only a few kinds are suitable to use as a bedding material for pavers. Kinds of sand that are unsuitable for paver bases include all-purpose sand and varieties made for children's sandboxes. Masonry sand and limestone screenings are also poor choices because they are too fine and cause problems similar to those of powdery rock or stone dust. Concrete sand, also called bedding sand, is the proper choice for a base when setting pavers, reveals Braen Stone. That kind of sand is coarser than other varieties.
Concrete sand's coarse texture prevents problems with drainage and creates friction that helps lock pavers into place. It compacts easily by hand or with the use of a mechanical compactor. As it is compacted, the sand rises into the joints between the pavers, helping to hold the pavers in place. That factor also helps with drainage and prevents moisture from getting underneath pavers. Sand also allows flexibility of the ground and keeps the pavers from cracking or settling under pressure if the ground shifts.
Even though now P sand (Plastering Sand) is available especially for plastering work. The P sand also a type of crushed sand and the particle size lesser than the normal M sand, which is suitable for plastering work.
The study investigates the use of crushed rock sand as viable alternative to Natural River sand that is being conventionally used as fine aggregate in cement concrete. Various mix designs were developed for different grades of concrete based on IS, ACI and British codes using Natural River sand and crushed rock sand. In each case, the cube compressive strength test, and beam flexure tests were conducted. The results of the study show that, the strength properties of concrete using crushed rock sand are nearly similar to the conventional concrete. The study has shown that crushed stone sand can be used as economic and readily available alternative to river sand and can therefore help to arrest the detrimental effects on the environment caused due to excessive mining of river sand.
If you have had a sand filter for a while, you are most likely already aware that the standard filter media to use is called #20 silica sand. This sand is about .45-.55mm in size and is capable of filtering out debris about 20-40 microns in diameter. As a reference, the diameter of the average human hair is 60-80 microns. Assuming you have good eyesight, particles that are smaller than 30-40 microns are generally no longer visible to the naked eye.
ZeoSand and FilterGlass are two alternatives to standard silica sand, and each of them can generally increase the filtration capacity of your sand filter to less than 5 microns, which is comparable to the filtration capability of a DE filter.
FilterGlass is made of finely crushed recycled glass. The glass particles are smooth to the touch, so no worries about adding sharp, jagged glass into your pool filter. Each piece is uniquely shaped (known as amorphous), making it less likely to channel as silica sand can over time. FilterGlass has a slightly negative electrical charge which allows it to hold fine, positively charged particles such as iron and manganese.
ZeoSand is made of 100% natural zeolites (minerals found in volcanic rock). The zeolite particles have a 3 dimensional honeycomb structure which gives a cubic foot of ZeoSand about 100 times the surface area as a cubic foot of sand, allowing smaller particles to be trapped.
FilterGlass and ZeoSand will each remove particles under 5 microns in size, so they will both dramatically improve the clarity of your pool water over silica sand. However, as you can see above there are some difference between the two which may make one a better choice than the other depending on your needs.
If you find that you need to shock frequently, perhaps its worth trying the ZeoSand to benefit from its ability to trap chloramine causing ammonia. This will reduce the need to shock the pool, and also reduce red eyes, itchy skin and that chlorine smell.
Both of these pool filter sand substitutes require much less backwashing than regular sand, though the FilterGlass will require the least. Less backwashing means less pool water and chemical waste, and more time on your hands!
Standard silica sand costs about $10-15 per 50lb. bag. You generally can obtain this product at a local pool supply or hardware store. Most companies (including In The Swim) do not sell the sand online because the cost to ship the sand is generally just as much, if not more, than the sand itself.
There is no doubt that both the FilterGlass and ZeoSand are both significantly more expensive per 50lb. bag, (current prices are $40-$45 per 50lb bag), but when you consider you will use less of the product (especially in the case of ZeoSand where you use half has much), and will likely use much less clarifier and other chemicals, they are still attractive from a cost standpoint.
I have an above ground pool that is 27000 gallons. I bought a SD80 sand filter and i have a 2 horse pump. This is my second year and I find when I vacuum the algea blows back in through the return or if I turn my pump on high it does the same thing! Would changing to zeosand catch the smaller particles better?
Hi Amy, it is somewhat normal for a sand filter to experience blow-back. It could be however, that the pump is too powerful for the filter size. Your pool needs about a 60 GPM flow rate, and depending on the pump, it could be pumping much more, which results in poor filtration, and just pushes the dirt right thru. If you have a variable speed pump, optimize the speed for about 55-65 GPM, and try not to exceed that rate. Zeosand may not be an improvement. When vacuuming the algae, fill the pool full, and vacuum to waste. You may also benefit from using Clarifier regularly, or may want to look at the Slime Bag product.
HI Amy, I just looked up the Design Flow Rate for the SD80 filter, and it is 75 GPM. Not sure what pump you have, but you can look up the Flow Chart, and see what flow rates it is capable of, might be more than 75 GPM, which would cause the issue.
Hi Brenda, you could fill it up to normal level if you want, but ZeoSand instructions are that one 50 lb bag of Zeosand is equal to 100 lbs of regular filter sand, so you only need to use half as much, but you can use more if you want.
I put 50# of zeo sand in an Intex 14 sand filter and after back washing the pump runs good for a few minutes then the system develops cavitation some how I cant find any air leaks double checked and re rigged everything twice and the problem still occurs. Im seeing that the recommend supplement for sand amount is 1/2 the weight. Spec is 77# sand so it should be 38.5# zeo. Is it possible that the extra zeo sand is too much for the pump to push through and its blowing pressure back into the pump skimmer and drawing back air from there? It has a pulsing behavior which also makes me thing that is the air source.
Darrell, pulsing or surging is usually associated with an air leak, but it could be associated with obstruction after the pump, like (?) too much filter sand. If it is burping air back to the pool, it more likely is an air leak. You mentioned a skimmer Sometimes skimmers will draw a vortex of air in, maybe disconnect the skimmer and see if the problem still occurs. Also be sure that the o-rings are inside of the suction union connections.
Hi Aaron, no it cannot sorry to say. It can only be used in a sand filter. If you dont want to ship it back ($) for refund, you can probably recoup half your money on Craiglist, Letgo or facebook marketplace.
Hi Sam, yes I would say that both zeosand and filterglass are superior to regular sand. We have lots of happy zeosand customers. We stopped selling filterglass some time ago, for a reason unknown to me, but I understand that many sand filter owners prefer it to sand. Generally with both zeo and fg, i think the recommended dose is half of the amount of normal sand, so 125 lbs, however, since they come in 50 lbs bags, go ahead and add 150 lbs.
I have a Triton 100 sand filter. If I use Zeosand I apparently need only half as much material as if I use silica sand. This filter should use 600 lbs of silica sand. If I use half as much Zeosand it will fill up less than half of the filter. The freeboard distance should be 11 1/4 inches with silica sand. With Zeosand it will be almost twice as much. Will this affect the filtering or the pressure from the pump?
Hi Gerry, great question, thanks! It will lower filter pressure, and raise water flow rate, but should still filter fine with increased freeboard (space above the sand). I tend to want to add more than 50% zeosand, but it need not be all zeosand. If I was you, I would add (regular) pea gravel first, to fill up to the laterals, which is probably about 100 lbs, maybe 130, then add the 300 lbs of zeosand, and maybe an extra bag or two of zeosand (350-400 total), just to be sure.
Hi Christopher, the size pump is very important, but not in regards to the Filter Media, but the Design Flow Rate of the filter itself. All pool filters have a Design Flow Rate, listed in the specs, and on the filter label. If your sand filter has a Design Flow of 50 gpm for example, the pump should be sized to not exceed 50 GPM. How do you know how much flow a pump will produce? You look at the pump flow curve a chart with Flow Rate on the X axis and Resistance in Feet of Head on the Y axis. How do you know the Resistance for your pool? Thats a bit more complicated, unless you have the original builder specs that displays the system resistance, expressed as Feet of Head. This sum adds up all the lengths of pipe, all the fittings, and all the equipment, as everything has its own level of resistance. Generally, the average inground pool has around 30-40 feet of head of resistance, but very simple pool systems (no heater, close to the pool, simple plumbing) could have less, and very complicated systems could have more. 2 piping has less resistance than 1.5 piping. Anyway the answer to the question is that when properly sized, the pump will have no effect on the lifespan of the zeosand. And even improperly sized actually too I dont expect the life of the sand to be affected either way, but if the pump is too large for the filter, the water will just push right thru the sand, and it wont filter very well, allowing a lot of small fine debris to slip through unfiltered. Depending on which 2 hp pump you have (different pumps produce vastly different flow amounts) [see the flow chart], it could be too large for a sand filter, depending on the size of the sand filter, or not, if you have a sand filter that has a design flow rate that is below the pumps flow rate capability.
I have had a sand filter for 3 yrs and every year its the same thing sand in the pool, laterals have been checked and are ok, will the go thru the laterals and into the pool as easily ? or how about glass?
Hi, FilterGlass is larger in size than regular filter sand, and FilterBalls are very large, both would be less likely to pass thru a lateral slit. What you describe is not common however, could be incorrectly sized sand, too much sand in the filter, (coming out after backwashing) or perhaps the pump is too large for the filter size? Filter sand does not normally push thru the laterals.
Purchasing a new filter and am just learning about ZeoSand and FilterGlass. Given that less of either product is needed. Can I purchase a smaller filter size and achieve the same effect or do I need to but the size I would need if I were using sand?
Hi, according to the manufacturer, Zeosand lasts about as long as filter sand so that to me would mean 5 years. They also recommend cleaning the sand bed with a salt rinse, or with BioDex Zeosand cleaner every two years, to restore the ammonia trapping properties of zeolite. https://www.intheswim.com/images/PDFs/A6405_broch.pdf https://www.intheswim.com/images/cat_image/Rebates2011/RefreshZeoSand.pdf
Hi, regular filter sand is #20, .45-.55 mm graded sand labeled Pool Filter Sand, like HTH sand. ZeoSand is made with zeolites, and is different from silica quartz, with better micron size filtering ability (10 microns) and also the ability to remove ammonia, a primary component of chloramines, or combined chlorine. It needs to be rejuvenated every few years with a cheap filter cleaner, to reactivate some of its properties. FilterGlass is another improvement over sand, with sharper edges that lay flat, and also have longer life and better performance. FilterBalls are the newest filter sand alternative, spun polyester, which our own Ryan Dornan has just installed on his pool, so stay tuned for his (honest) reviews, but so far positive with much clearer water and reduced pump run time. So, basically there are 3 alternatives which all promise better performance than filter sand, which can miss particles below 20 microns in size. However, sand is still the cheapest option, and the only option that you may find locally. So there is that advantage. For such a small pool, you would use a smaller sand filter, maybe the Intex sand filter would be a good fit. You may need some adapters to fit the larger hoses to your smaller wall fittings. you also may need to change the filter sand more often than a larger sand filter, which can go up to 10 yrs in some cases, between sand changes. Aboveground sand filters may need new sand every few years, or even every year in some cases, because the sand bed depth is so small.
Hi Michael, good question. Filterglass and Zeosand are both fine filter sand substitutes that claim to reduce backwashing frequency of length of time needed, which saves water, which saves salt so maybe a small advantage there. But not really preferred for a salt water pool perhaps.
Ok im new to sand filter system. My problem is the top of the sand in my tank gets kinda hard and dont let the jet blow water back in pool and the skimmer stops flowing as well.i take the big valve off and break up the sand and im good for about 2 hrs then same thing. What do i need to do. Please help.
Hi, it could be calcification, from high calcium hardness levels, or other solids (or oils) in the water. I would suggest that you use a sequestering Stain & Scale type of chemical, to keep minerals and metals in solution, and then change the sand, or at least the top 6 or so of the sand bed. If it continues, dig deeper into the causes. Enzyme treatment may be useful to remove oils, which combine with minerals and dirt, to calcify on the top of the sand bed. If continues without relief, consider FilterGlass or FilterBALLS as an alternative that likely would not clog in such a way.
Hi, according to Zeolite, you could do this, but they say its unnecessary, Zeosand is more effective [than glass]. I could see the two materials mixing however, I dont think they will stay in perfectly stratified layers, but will mix over time, which may or may not be a problem?
I work at a hot springs resort and were constantly battling buildup and channeling in our sand filter. Its likely a result of the minerals in the water, but being that we have a flow-through system we cant really balance our water.. Weve tried sand revitalizers and a layer of pea gravel under the sand as well, but still ended up experiencing channeling within a month.. Do you think filter glass might help at all? Ive also heard that water softener beads might be a possible media replacement, have you heard anything about that? I realize this is an old post, hopefully itll still reach you.
Hi Art, Channeling can be a result of very high minerals (as found in natural hot springs), but also can be caused or worsened by high water flow, through the sand bed, or low water flow through the sand bed, too. Perhaps installing a filter bypass valve, to reduce flow rates thru the filter, would help. As for Filterglass, it is probably that the glass has properties that wont allow it to clump and harden. Sand is also a form of glass, so I dont know for sure. According to this articles: https://www.poolspanews.com/facilities/maintenance/a-glass-act_o [glass may not clump and harden as readily as sand, due to a weaker bond formed, allowing minerals to backwash out more easily]- Seems Legit! Id give it a try. Maybe contact the manufacturer directly? ask them what they think?
In the production of artificial sand, or processing natural sand, sand washing machines are widely used. Those washing equipment help wash and separate the soil or other impurities in sand (artificial sand, natural sand) and gravel aggregate.
The sand after being cleaned by the sand washer will get a more cleaner and pretty looks and achieve a better quality, thats make the sand reach the quality request and help sold with a higher price in the market, so the sand washer has gradually become an important equipment of the artificial sand production line.
When sand washing machine working, the impellors run slowly with the sand washer motor after decelerated by the decelerator, gears wheel and belt. The sand and stone flow into washing tank from feeding launder grinds with each other and rolls with the impellor slowly, the impurities covered in sand is washing out.At the same time, the washing water will take some wastes and impurities away from washing tank also. The washed sand and stone is lifted up by impellor. When it rolls up slowly, the water begins to drop through the meshes and fall back in the washing tank, the water can be fully used. Finally, the clean sand and stone goes out of the washing tank and the washing process is over.
The use of hyrocyclones in sand washing machines is the most efficiency method for sand washing process, because it lets to recovery sand without losing fines.When working, the waste water pruduced during the washing process is extracted by slurry pump, and feeding into hydrocyclone, then the 0.074-3mm fine sand will be recycled in the cyclone.
Coarse sand (3-10mm) and fine sand (0.074-3mm) are feed onto polyurathane screen panels for dewatering, after dewatering process the water content is in 8-12% and those sands can be conveyed, piled up or transported.
Our washing machine has powerful washing capabilities:Typically, our wheel sand washing machine has a capacity of 15-200 tph, and our spiral sand washing machine has a more powerful washing ability with a capacity of 70-350 tph.Whats more, you can contact our engineer to get fully customized with the number of impellers or screws and the length to increase the max capacity.
From the actual production situation, Spiral sand washer has a more powerful washing ability, which can wash larger gravel with serious mud impurities effectively . So, it is often equipped in large-scale sand production lines.
For our wheel-type sand washer, our data shows the loss of fine sand and stone powder is small, and the water consumption during sand washing is less. And our strict test shows the gradation and fineness modulus of the washed sand can meet the standard requirements;Compared with wheel sand washers, spiral sand washers lose more fine sand during cleaning, and our experimental data also proves that the sand cleaned by spiral sand washer is more clean.
However, when choosing sand washers, users should consider the composition of sand and gravel, expected production capacity, factory site conditions and other factors, and choose the most suitable machines for their requirements.
Yes, our sand maker is fully customizable. Our customers can freely choose to increase the number of washing wheels according to the conditions of sand and gravel. Whats more, If the clay content of sand and gravel is high or the output need to be increased, our spiral sand washer can also increase the length of the auger shaft or use double helix side by side, also it can also be divided into single screw sand washer and double screw sand washer. You can contact us for a full customize for your situations.
While the price of spiral sand washer is relatively higher, which belongs to the type of high-grade and Large-output sand washer. And the detail price can vary from your customized, so please contact our sales for more information.
do we use crusher dust instead of sand in concrete. ... Use of stone powder in concrete... replacement of sand by quarry dust in concrete. Can we use quarry dust ...can you use crusher dust instead sand in concrete. ... use mini concrete crusher how much crusher dust to use as a fertiliser
Ore beneficiation equipment, sand making equipment, crushing equipment and powder grinding equipment, which are widely used in various industries such as metallurgy, mine, chemistry, building material, coal, refractory and ceramics.
M Sandis nothing but artificialsandmade from crushing of rock or granite for construction purposes in cement or concrete.M sanddiffers from natural riversandin its physical and mineralogical properties.
In some case studies, it was found that concrete produced by using manufactured sand obtained 6-9 %(percent) higher compressive strength and 12-15 %(percent) higher flexural strength compared to river sand of the same grade.
If I am not mistaken, P sandstands for Plasteringsand. Other types are manufacturedsand(msand), sharpsands, buildingssands etc. The difference is in the size of the particles. Plastering sandwill have fine grained particles, whereas manufacturedsand will have little coarser particles may be.
Manufactured sand(MSand) is artificialsand produced from crushing hard stones into small sand sized angular shaped particles, washed and finely graded to be used as construction aggregate. It is a superior alternative to RiverSandfor construction purpose.
MSandis the only alternative toriver sand. Higher concrete strength comparedtoriver sandused for concreting. ThoughM Sanduses natural coarse aggregates to form, it causes less damage to the environment ascomparedtoriver sand. Better quality control since manufactured in a controlled environment.
Concrete withm sandhas very poor permeability as compared toriver sand. But whenriver sandis used in concrete the permeability of concrete is less poor as compared toriver sand. It has more water absorption 2 to 4 %. Whereas water absorption ofriver sandis less 1.5 to 3%.
Manufactured sand(MSand) is a substitute of riversand for concrete construction.Manufactured sandis produced from hard granite stone by crushing. The crushedsand is of cubical shape with grounded edges, washed and graded to as a construction material.
Most of you coming from freshwater will have been used to gravel as the substrate in your aquarium, but now you are faced with a plethora of substrates! Which do you use? What grain size? Which material?
Crushed coral was a popular substrate choice for many aquarists but newer sand-based products help reduce trapped detritus, balance Ph better, and a wide selection of grain sizes to suit every aquarium have made sand become the preferred choice for saltwater aquariums.
It has large grain sizes which makes it good for tanks with very high flow. Smaller grain-sized substrates can be whipped up by a strong flow and create a sand storm in your aquarium. This was prevented by using the larger grains of crushed coral.
The detritus as able to settle into the gaps between the grains and if it is not removed by regular maintenance of the sand bed, it will begin to decay and breakdown. As the detritus breaks down it will release Ammonia, Nitrates, and Phosphates which will feed algae.
Many aquarists have reported tank-destroying algae outbreaks many years after their aquarium was first installed. After removing the detritus laden substrate and replacing it with a sand-based substrate their algae bloom dissipated.
Sand-Sifting Starfish, Gobys & Nassuarius snails all like to bury themselves in the sand and sift it through their mouths to help remove the detritus. The grain sizes in this substrate are too large for these animals to work in your aquarium.
Dry sand is just what it sounds. Sand that has been collected, dried and then packaged. The majority of sands available for the saltwater aquarium are all aragonite based (More on this at the end of the article) and CaribSea is the major producer that you will find in most saltwater aquariums in North America.
Caribsea sieves the sands into varying sized grains to suit your particular requirements.You can get sand in fine sugar-sized grains which Caribsea recommends for Deep Sand Bed aquariums where Anaerobic zones are required for Nitrification.
Dry sand takes a little while longer to cycle because it has no beneficial bacteria within it, but for those of you who wish to begin with a completely sterile aquarium, dry sand with dry rock is the perfect way to go.
Live sand is the same type of sand as dry sand except it comes packaged wet. Contained within this moisture are billions of broad-spectrum marine bacteria but also carefully selected strains of marine bacteria to help begin the formation of your aquariums biological filter.
The two biggest benefits to using the Arag-Alive! range of sands is that the bacteria contained within it will allow a faster aquarium cycle due to the bacteria already being colonized and because it is Aragonite based it will keep the waters Ph stable around 8.2 which is perfect for a reef tank.
But what if the aquarium you bought second-hand comes with a crushed coral substrate and the previous owner swears by it? Can you just clean the crushed coral and then add new sand to it to speed up the cycle? Well yes, you can but why would you? Saving money is usually the first answer I hear.
If you do add sand to a crushed coral substrate you will fill in all the gaps to prevent detritus from building up, but if you do not clean the crushed coral properly you have now just locked in that detritus which will decay and release its problem elements.
The best practice is to dispose of the crushed coral and start with new sand, dry or alive. Just spend the little bit of cash now to install a new sandbed and save yourself potentially many nitrate and phosphate problems in the years to come.
This is important because most reef tanks like to sit at a Ph of around 8.0 8.2. As the Aragonite slowly dissolves, it releases Calcium Carbonate into the water which is then consumed by the invertebrates to build their shells and corals like LPS and SPS to build their skeletons.
This is also a calcium carbonate-based mineral except it dissolves at a much lower Ph of 7.5. With saltwater aquariums having a much higher Ph this type of substrate will never dissolve. Because it doesnt dissolve in a saltwater solution of 8.0 you do not get the added benefit of the sand buffering and stabilizing the Ph.
Now you have the information to decide on what type of sand is going to be right for your aquarium the next thing you need to do is calculate how much sand you need to buy.Click on the button below to go to Marine Depots sand bed calculator. It gives you some great information on the types of grain sizes and then calculates how much sand you need to purchase
Hi, I'm Richard and I have been an avid aquarist for over 30 years with a passion for Saltwater Aquariums. I love to pass on my knowledge to help others get the same amount a pleasure out of this hobby as I do. View my About Me page to find out more about me & my mixed reef aquarium.
My name is Richard and I have been an avid aquarist for over 25 years. My journey began, like many others, with the introduction of two goldfish and a small aquarium. I was hooked! It took me years of searching to help find all the best information to help me become successful with a Saltwater Aquarium. This site is designed to put all that helpful information in one easy-to-find place.
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