Kiln drying your own wood at home can be a great way to sustainably harvest the materials around you, and dry it fast enough to build furniture with. If furniture is made with wood that is too wet, it will continue to dry and crack, possibly ruining the piece. This instructable takes you through the process of raw wood in the spring, to dry lumber in the fall. You can do this with any kind of wood.
Finding rough timber and logs to mill is a lot easier than you may think. There's always someone around that's trying to get rid of a fallen tree or wants to take down a dead tree. Calling around to local tree trimmers and arborists can lead to some great opportunities. These people make a living with trees, and if you can offer them a fair price for a log, they'll often choose to sell it because it saves them the work of disposal, or processing it into firewood. Put an add in the paper, call your local city or municipality and ask about who deals with downed trees. The list goes on and on, but you can definitely find something. The term "windfall" comes from just that, wind storms can mean lots of wood. Once you've gotten the wood, local sawyers are plentiful in most areas, and many will bring their portable sawmill to you for a very reasonable rate. I pay $100 an hour here, and a good sawyer can do a lot in an hour. Worth their weight in gold, these hardworking folks are a woodworkers dream come true, and they often have a stock of amazing, local woods for sale.You can also choose to mill it yourself with a chainsaw, which I partially do sometimes depending on the log. If you choose to do this, read up, and follow all the safety precautions of those tools. And like anything in woodworking, protect your eyes, ears and lungs.
If you don't seal the end grain of your logs and timbers, they will crack and split as moisture is perspired. The end grain needs to be sealed up with a material that will close up the open pores of the wood. I often mix 50/50 wood glue and water then saturate the ends several times. You can also use paint or wax. These logs all started off at a pretty normal 32 percent moisture content.
Start off by air drying your wood for a few months to shed the first bit of water naturally, maybe a loss of eight to ten percent. Stack the wood up with plenty of spacers, or stickers, to allow for good airflow, and I like to put a piece of plastic on the ground under the wood to keep the humidity from the ground from effecting the lumber. I bind the wood with tie downs to minimize cracking and twisting, and I build a temporary plastic roof to keep off the rain. Place it in a location with good prevailing winds, it makes a big difference.
After a few months, bring the wood indoors and finish the drying. To build the kiln lay poly (clear plastic roll) on the ground and then build a frame with 2x4 studs on top of it for the lumber to rest on. Leave enough space to have a standard household dehumidifier at one end, and a small fan at the other. The fan circulates the air to even out the drying. I designed mine to pull air from below, then blow the air down a plastic tube to the other end. This way I know there's no stagnant air or dampness trapped in the kiln. This one is 20 feet, or 6 meters, long. The dehumidifier is also trapped inside the kiln and is set to maximum. This model has a hose that runs out of the kiln and fills a bucket. The kiln is built around the stacked and bound lumber over a light wooden frame that carries the plastic. All seams need to be sealed with vapour barrier tape to hold the moisture in. I cut a few small access holes to control the dehumidifier and to test the woods moisture content in various places. Tape up these holes after you use them. The wood remained in the kiln for about 4 months and reached an average of 8 percent. This is mostly 2" thick arbutus, also called madrone.
Using this unique wood often presents the opportunity to really showcase a unique piece of wood that you can be proud of harvesting in a sustainable manner. Thanks for taking the time to read through this instructable, now get out there and save some logs!
Im not sure how to ask this but I hope it make sense. What would be the best way to slice the log into slabs to prevent splitting and twisting? Is there a rule of thumb to follow? Im getting ready to process a winged elm. Thanks in advance.
The drawback of this method is the power consumption. Four months with a fan (say 35W) and dehumidifier (about 240W) is about 800 kWh, which would be a substantial addition to a power bill.Out of interest what was the ambient temperature? At low temperatures the rate of drying would be slow, while these dehumidifiers are usually designed to cut out at 32 C.
If I air-dry pine (Southern yellow pine) for 6 weeks with end coating and Borax and high strength termiticide and then 6 weeks with electric fan, will I get twisting in vertical beams sawn to 12" by 12" and 20 feet long? Could I use sooner than 12 weeks and put beam under light compression (vertical members) load? Tak
Hi, Would you mind giving me a little more of a "recipe" I suppose to your drying techniques? Im very new to this hobby and I want to make a table out of fresh cut hardwood. I also want it to be an outdoor table. Thanks for your time anyway.
not all sawyers know what they are doing. I asked for some quarter sawn oak and he started cutting parallel with the grain instead of perpendicular. He did not understand. I tried to correct him but the best part of the wood was ruined for quarter sawn. So have the confidence to double check and confirm that you are getting what you wanted. That means draw a picture on the log if that is what it takes.
I read that one of the important parts of kiln dried lumber is that it is heated to kill bugs. Should be heat the wood using a solar wall or something like that or would it dry out the wood to fast. I need to process red oak.
We made a large kiln for a Boy Scout camp using the body from an old dairy delivery truck. We air dry for about one month, then rack the wood in the kiln and use a dehumidifier and small fan. With the insulation, we can use the kiln in the winter (in Ohio) as the returned heat from the de-humidifier and the fan motor are sufficient, or we can add a small heater. The kiln is nearly air-tight and the de-humidifier drains through the floor. An alternative to a de-humidifier is a simple recycled window air conditioner where the cooled (dried) air is directed back through the compression coils and then out to the racked wood instead of exhausting the heated air outdoors. This arrangement should have a higher capacity than most de-humidifiers.
the fan is inside the plastic "room"( if you look close you can see the base of it in the pic) basically it just circulates the air inside the kiln, the plastic tube directs the damp air towards the dehumidifier without blowing over the lumber again. Be warned home dehumidifier are not designed for wood drying. The coils will slowly deteriorate from the acid in the wood. Coils in wood kilns are coated for protection. Coated with what?....I have yet to find out.
Just a thought but the coils might be helped by lightly spraying them with a rattle can of outside grade clearcoat. On the other hand you don't need to collect that acidic stuff. More humid air tends to rise so you could just blow the heated and dried air in from the bottom of the kiln and then top vent the acidic vapor straight out the nearest window.
Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) once said, 'It took me 7 days to get over the worst cold I ever had, but with proper medicine and rest, I was able to get over the next one in only 1 week'. The humor being, it took about the same time either way. In the U.S. Southeast (summer temps around 100F in the day, always near saturation at 100-percent relative humidity), a couple of my friends and I built a simple three-walled 'pavilion' structure to put poplar 1-inch planks in to 'air-dry'. We cut, run 1/8-inch strippers between layers, thousands of board feet, and in about 5-6 months, we could take 35-40 percent green poplar down to 10-12 percent wood water by simply running a barn fan (42-inch diameter 1 hp motor) at the end of the pavilion, blowing through the planks. I'm still not sure of the exact mechanics of how this worked due to the high relative humidity, but with no monetary investment beyond building the pavilion and the electricity to run the fan (pennies a day per thousand board-ft), I can't look a 'gift-kiln' in the mouth.
You can build a re-saw for cheap to cut your logs into boards or planks. All you do is mount 2 tires on a frame. One stationary with a motor and the other needs to have an adjustment from side to side for the tracking. The only part that might cost is a 4 inch band saw blade. The whole set up works just like a belt sander.
If you own a sawmill or a furniture business you know how important quality lumber drying is. You also know what it is worth. What would your business look like if you didnt have to wait more than a week for your wood to dry? How would your cashflow change?
Similarly, how long does it take for wood to dry? However, you can expect most types of wood to take about one year per inch of thickness to dry out. If it's a two-inch log, that means you'll need to let it sit outdoors for two whole years before it's dry enough to efficiently burn. Exposing fresh, green wood to air is just one way to dry it out.
Place a dehumidifier in the center of the room once all of the standing water is removed. Set it to the highest extraction setting possible. Turn it on and leave it running for at least 24 hours to pull moisture from the boards. Place fans blowing across the surface to further aid in drying the wood out.
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Hallo Eric We cut down an English Oak (we think) a year ago. The tree trunk was cut in a log 3000mmx450mmx650mm and a plank 3000mx150mmx650mm. There is no treatment applied to date. All sides have been sanded. See photos attached. We live in South Africa (Pretoria) fairly dry not a lot of humidity here. Any recommendation on how we could dry/preserve this wood.
At this point, it is pretty heavily checked throughout. I would just embrace those flaws, and once more thoroughly dried, you could filled the gaps in with epoxy, possibly with a contrasting color if so desired.
So thankful I stumbled across this! Been looking into drying these cuban mahogany logs I have. My plan for these logs is to make display benches for Bonsai trees. The logs are halved. An idea I had was a type of drying box, you are the first indeed to mention this. One log is 7 long, the other 5. So I have 4, half logs. My plan was to build a 96x 24x 24 box from 3/4 plywood, line it with duct board, add sodium bicarbonate to the bottom of the box to absorb moisture. Then add a small spaceRead more
Yes, I use the incandescent bulb method all the time. For me, its really only a final step for wood thats already more-or-less dry, but is stored in a location where the humidity is higher than ideal. By this time, the bulk of the drying has already been (slowly) happening, and I place the wood in the drying box with uncoated/raw endgrain even finished components before assembly. In this way, it shouldnt take more than a week to nudge the wood down just a little further to the proper EMC. But Id guess that 6 to 8 inch thickRead more
I just slabbed (if you want to call it that) a 36in dia red oak trunk and produced varying thicknesses of slabs, which were very rough from the chainsaw I then used a router sled to flatten to a point where I could stack. I have several thick slabs (ranging from 2-4in thick, 8 feet long 14-16 in wide) . . .Is there any value in cutting those down to smaller sections (say half the width) to speed up the drying process or is that a mistake that will render the slabs useless or cause them to cup/warp/twist moreRead more
It might shorten the dry time a little bit to reduce the width, but generally thickness is the limiting factor. The only reason to cut width-wise would be if you had initially included the pith, which might be helpful to cut out. But at 4 thick, its going to take a while to air dry properly.
hello!I live in Turkiye I have a two questions 1-Is it necessary to peel the bark after cutting the tree in correct drying? 2- Is it appropriate to dry the tree in logs after cutting it? Or is it necessary to slice immediately? thank you from now
Generally, if the tree will end up as boards, its best to saw them up into rough-sawn boards as early in the drying process as possible. Not necessary to strip the bark off for drying (if sawing the log up into boards), though this can help with some species, and is generally more sanitary as it can get rid of some pests that may be present in the bark.
Thank you very much for your interest I have read in some sources that trees such as eucalyptus should be watered after cutting and placed in the pool for 3-5 months. Is this true? If so, how should the irrigation process be done?
Merhaba serkan. Kullanacak oldu?un ah?ab? a?ac? kestikten hemen sonra kestirme. A?a mmknse kuru bir ortamda tomruk halinde en az 1 sene dinlendirilmeli. E?er a?ac? keser kesmez bitirirseniz al??ma oran? iki kat fazla olacakt?r vede atlama ka?n?lmaz derecede ok fazla olur. ?artlar msaitse a?ac? 1 sene tomruk halinde bekletip ondan sonra bictirilip bir daha kurutulmaya al?n?nca al??ma ve atlama oran? ok ok d?ecektir.
ok te?ekkr ederim a?klama iin en az?ndan kesersemde 5-6 cm kal?nl?kta kesmeyi d?nyorum ama tomruk olarak muhafaza edebilirsem dedi?iniz gibi b?rak?r?m seneye kadar tekrar te?ekkrler sa?l?cakla kal?n
I live in Oklahoma, and recently had a pin oak sawn into slabs that had come down in a storm last summer. We are planning to store in the garage for even drying and keeping as flat as possible. My concern is am I attracting termites by doing so? We will remove all bark prior to stacking and storing. Any suggestions would be welcome.
We are using Queensland cypress for our gates. We have trouble with weight over 8 foot long hanging from hinges and gudgeons as our glue seems to be failing. Can you recommend an extremely strong glue for this purpose. Our timber comes from our local sawmill so it does seem a little wet and heavy whilst working with it, maybe this is the problem? We have rails and bracing and now having to screw at the stiles for added support.
Generally, most heat used in wood drying would be in a large commercial kiln, so not really something that most people would do at home. However, there are some plans online for a DIY solar kiln, which might be a feasible home option if youre really set on using heat instead of passive air drying.
Making stuff with recently fallen trees. Red Cedar, Black Walnut. Ive been in the water damage restoration business for years. Any info or advice on using dehumidification equipment to dry out chainsaw milled lumber.
Hello just wondering if you received an answer to your question? I have a large ash tree Im about to mill with chainsaw and was thinking of drying in a garage with a dehumidifier. Any information you have would be appreciated. Thanks, John
i have a mature Prunus Avium that for safety reasons (position )has to come down what is the best way to store the wood for drying out i want to keep some big pieces of stem to make a bench with a back, and others to make bols ect.
I have a Holly tree that has a 24 inch circumference and an almost clear trunk of 6 feet high. It needs to come down as it is too close to the house . I would like to make a solid body electric guitar out of it. What thickness planks would I need to start with if the finished product is to be 1.75 thick for the body and 3-1/2 thick for the neck? Length x Width of body: 20.500 x 13.875 (520.7 mm x 352.4 mm) Thickness: 1.750 (44.5 mm)
Hi, came across your question. Usual practice is to leave at least one quarter inch per face for shrinkage and later dimensioning, so you need 1/2 inch thicker. However, bear in mind holly can be a right bugger drying and you will almost certainly find knots in profusion from growth earlier in the trees life before the clear trunk formed. Twists and pockets forming around knots is common with holly. Id think about cutting out strips from your eventual dry timber, skirting the blemishes and laminating up the guitar from this plus another timber. The grain of holly is nothingRead more
Well , I have cut it down and milled it into 5 foot, 2 usable 2.5 inch thick planks and two outer planks that are about 1.5 inch each, lots of cool looking dark brown knots in very white wood, looking forward to watching it dry
I have milled Ash logs 5X5 in lengths of 8, 12 and 16 feet to be used for a small cabin.Can I air dry these outside with the same sticker and stacking system as 1 thick lumber or should I use a different system and how long should they dry?
I have acquired 1000 board feet of Malave hard wood which is 6x2x12. Its literally coming right out of the jungle to be delivered in a week or two. The intended use is for hard wood floors so I will have the 2 pieces split to 1 upon arrival. I have a concrete room I can seal off with plastic on one side. Will then cut and seal the ends. Sticker and stack with 1 dehumidifier and 2 box fans to move air. I am getting a pin type humidity probe and wireless temperature and humidity sensor. We are inRead more
Hello, I inherited a garage full of miscellaneous wood from a fellow who had a custom furniture shop. There are a lot of ash strips that he used for the edges of plywood shelves. I have been gluing the strips together to make very nice cutting/chopping boards. I have been reading recently that ash doesnt make very good cutting boards because of the open grain, but I really like these boards. Using the data you present for wood species, how do I determine if a particular wood is open grained and unsuitable for cutting boards? The benchmark cutting board woodRead more
Yes, Ive always thought of the term closed grain is somewhat of a misnomer, as technically all woods are open to an extentthats how sap and other nutrients are transported through the tree trunk. But really the best metric for finding suitability is found in pore size. Maple has pores that are just small enough to cause them to become plugged up with sawdust during the building phase. So when a finish is applied, the surface of the wood seems smooth (it is smooth, but only because the small pores have been jammed with sawdust). With woods like ash, oak,Read more
John Richie: You could do a simple search on Google, Just ask Google if ash or whatever wood types you are wanting to use are suitable for cutting/chopping boards. I make cutting boards too and sometimes I am lucky enough to inherit small slabs of walnut and maple from people in my local neighbourhood, usually from people who dont make cutting boards. I am a member of a very busy cutting board forum on Facebook which has thousands of members and who are all very helpful, it is called Cutting Board Hobbyiests you can learn a lot on this forumRead more
Hello, today a >10years Maple tree downed by Isaias hurricane (NY) was cute by the Park & Recreational Dept. We asked to keep some pieces for future furniture project-Tree stump side tables. Its our first time acclimating/seasoning from the very beginning of the process and with this size of wood logs we live in the basement, have access to the house garage (landlord storage) and open garden. Currently our area in Queens, NY, is under a heat/rain showers wave (81/69-88/74F). Please advice to treat humidity, drying, and stacking. Thank you.
I was given a walnut log by a friend that I had milled to 6 x 5 x 7 to be used as a mantle above a fireplace. My local sawmill told me its too large for a kiln so I am curious how long I need to air dry it. Much of what I see on-line are air-drying directions for traditionally-sized boards in order to use the walnut for fine furniture. For what I needjust a rectangle hanging on the wallhow short an air-dry time can I get away with? Thanks!
Are you going to do a more refined finish, like a glossy, pore filled finish? Or are you going for a more rustic or rough-sawn look? If its the former, you could be waiting for several years, but if the latter, it depends. It think you should probably get a wood moisture meter if you dont already have one, or at least regularly weigh the wood to see how things are progressing.
Thanks Eric. Very helpful. Should I have it outside (sheltered from rain/snow) or is my uninsulated garage OK? In the sun? Shade? Im in New England so would it be good to bring it in the house during the winter or should it stay outside?
I just cut a lot of cherry. Its my first time attempting to dry this volume of wood. I (very) rough cut the logs with my chainsaw. Thickness is very uneven throughout the boards, and frankly, some have bulges and some are wedge shaped. Should I plane the boards for uniform thickness before stacking?
Yes definitely. When you stack on stickers and have a lot of variance in thickness. The thinner parts arent touching a sticker on the top side. Leaves room for movement and warping. Green would does not like to feed in a planer. Might have to live the bed with wd-40.
I want to cut some Larch trees about 15 x 15-20 to use as porch posts on my log cabin. How much shrinkage should I expect ? If I want a 15 log how big does the green size have to be? I am going to debark and paint the ends immediately and stack them with stickers 16 to space them for drying, Im drying them in a pole barn, how long will it take them to dry?
I love in Oregon. They cut down my grandfathers old oak tree on Friday. They delivered five slabs cut from the trunk. They are approximately five feet in diameter and approximately six inches deep. Too heavy to move them. We did stack them on wood to get them off the asphalt and between layers. Its winter here so the sun wont really shine. How do I process these?
A recent storm just brought down a 75+ year old (dying) mulberry in my yard. I am interested in using the wood for projects (nothing specific yet). Whats the best course of action to harvest this wood?
Get it cut, seal the cut ends, slab it with a chainsaw or split it into whatever size is manageable, raise it off the ground, and get it stacked and stickered in a windy, shaded spot with some kind of cover over the top. Do it as soon as possible because the tree was already dying/dead and rot and decay will set in within days to a couple weeks with direct contact with the ground, even though mulberry is very rot-resistant.
STICKER STAINS. I had a green Walnut tree sawn into 2 live edge slabs. I air dried them inside my pole barn using 3/4 x 1 1/2 red cedar stickers. I found that while sanding then applying topcoat there is a faint line where the sticker was. I had to sand off finish and sand deeper than desired. Any ideas on an alternative choice of sticker material?
Im new to this all. And now, after waxing up these discs, Im reading bark on is a bad idea for what may turn out to be coffee tables (that is if I dont break them first lol). Im assuming once its waxed cant take the bark off? Or should I just give it a shot and see what happens. Also, should I dry these babies out before putting on legs? Ive watched so many things on YouTube it makes.my head spin. Here are some pictures. Its a maple tree (Norway or Canadian, not sure. The arborist told me differentRead more
These are sections and will dry with high stress. After time, say 6 months to a year, the wood will suddenly split from the edge to the center in one place, leaving what looks like a wedge defect. This is due to the circumrferential shrinkage (tangential) being greater than the radial shrinkage. There are two fixes. You can saw the blank in half, then dry it down, then resaw the two pieces which will develop a convex angle of a degree or two along the cut surface. Alternatively, a chemical treatment to keep moisture in the wood can be used.Read more
Steve thank you. Its only been a week or two, after applying some wax, and its starting to split and develop mold. Yikes. Maybe I need to wipe off the wax and let the sun do its job. Any suggestions?
Pour denatured alcohol onto the surface of the pieces and let it flow trough to the bottom side. Wood is like a million tiny straws when cut into discs, this will force the moisture out. If you have a pan big enough you can catch the alcohol as it comes through an reuse. I made about 100 oak disks out of green wood and used this method I only had 1 crack.
I have someone offering for sale some raw ( never stained or varnished) hardwood flooring that has been stored in his garage for years ( 10 plus). He says some is cherry and some is black walnut. He got it from a flooring company that went out of business. Pieces are variable lengths but is 3/4 thick x 3 1/4 wide. My cabinet maker told me to stay away from it as it will likely be too high in moisture and will distort after installing it on my floor. I live in London,Ontario Canada. High humidity. What is your opinion.Read more
If it has truly been stored for 10 years, it should be dry. I wouldnt take anything for granted though. Maybe just bring a moisture meter along and test some of the middle/inside boards in the stack to see what moisture level theyre at. Also a good idea, if you do end up getting them, to let them acclimate to your humidity level indoors for a while in the same location where they will be installed. Best time to do all this is in a drier time of year such as fall.
I will be air drying a disc of white ash recently cut. It is 3 feet in diameter and at least a foot thick. That is, cut right across the trunk of a huge tree killed by Emerald Ash Borer. (Here, only White Ash could be that big.) I bought a square metal outdoor fireplace box to use as a drying stand. I can shade it with an old table-tennis table I use outdoors. Will this work?
I just had a bunch of hickory sawn down into 2.5 slabs roughly. 2ft + X 10ft. They are in a uninsulated garage with a fan moving some air. The problem that I am having are the slabs are starting to spilt at ends. I never painted or sealed ends. If I cut and seal ends will this help? Do I turn off fan to let them just dry slower?
Anytime you attempt to just air-dry wood without sealing the ends, youre asking for trouble. I would both cut and seal the ends and turn off the fan. You can stack the wood in a more open configuration to allow natural/passive air flow throughout the wood stack.
Hello I want to cut oak trees (northern California) and use the tree trunk together with the bark to build a bed frame. Any suggestions how to dry the wood to keep the bark on and prevent mould ? Thanks for any recommendation.
Great ambition to leave the bark on the wood, but that adds exponential difficulties to your finished product. Even if the wood is dried, cured, treated, prepared, set up in your home, then what will happen when the bark gets bonked? Even if you seal the bark with urethane, chunks of bark will fall off when impacted. Bark on looks great for synthetic wood-looking displays at restaurants and outdoor living stores, but my advice is to keep away from leaving the bark on. Bark on inhibits mold, mildew, critter infestation, and compromised wood integrity; when the tree was alive thenRead more
I have roughly 1.5 thick cookies about 12 wide. Hoping to preserve the bark, and prevent cracking as much as possible. Some have frozen sections (Canadian winters are fun). Would you suggest soaking in pentacryl (once thawed out), stacking and drying, or just painting it on almost like poly throughout the drying process? Thanks!
I have imported Peruvian walnut slabs from Honduras. They are 3 inch thick and kiln dried aggressively for 3 weeks. A very short time, I know. Unwisely, I had relied on local expertise. Upon completion the slabs registered 6% MC. Once shipped and delivered and after checking a small sample, the MC inside was much higher and checking was visible. What are my options? Is there any comeback? Should I just leave them out to continue drying or should I find a kiln that can properly finish the job or is it now firewood? In the future I think IRead more
Hey Larry, I live in Honduras. If youre getting your wood in Olancho, best thing is to get it sawn (even quatersawn) as soon as you cut it. Dry it slow, keep the humidity high enough so that the outside of the wood doesnt dry too fast. This is really beautiful stuffI like it even more than american black walnut. Regarding the pile that you have, you might want to cut a foot or two of the ends and dry it all as slowly as you can, though in all honesty, this is a very stable wood. All the bestRead more
I had a small tornado hit my place and knocked down alot of trees cedar, oak,hickory ,walnut ect i want to mill the cedar into 1 inch boards and Shiplap side my house I have a big shop area with a wood stove In it my question is how long will it take the cedar to dry and what is the optimal temp to keep the shop while drying??
Mixed blessing with all that lumber; cedar is a softwood which will be surprisingly light once fully dried, which a 1 board will take less than 1 year, however cedar has so many knots and grain curve that your dried finished pieces likely will all have natural twists and bends to it. That is one reason for high use of cedar shakes rather than timbers. If you can be flexible regarding exposure of each siding piece, then you can easily overlap each cedar piece according to its natural curves (and your aesthetic will be a rustic, great look to it!).Read more
I recently cut 4 white paper birch trees to use as braces from my cabins gable end to the loft approximately 10-12 feet. The poles will not support anything, just brace the outer wall from movement when the patio door is closed and add aesthetic value to the open area. The trees will remain intact with the bark. How do I dry these birch poles to ensure they do not rot and the bark stays put? Thank you.
I have a question My husband has been drying out wood for a few years and I am trying to have a wall created (similar to shiplack but not tight or finished) just propped that way on the wall for storage purposes.
Great article I have a question. I cut some rounds and some 45 degree slabs from a black cherry to make cutting boards. Do you think i can apply salad bowl finish right away to reduce any cracking and splitting? I was wondering if applying the finish would displace the moisture and then i could sand them down when a bit drier.
I am remodeling my house and bought red oak retreads for my steps and they are 1 inch thick. I double coated the topside (not the underside) with polyurethane and left them in the garage (about3 weeks ). Unfortunately the all occurred during prolonged periods of rain and they cupped upward. The installer cannot use them. I am looking to salvage the retreads if at all possible. Can I use a kiln to dry out the retreads and will they straighten out? Is there any advice that anyone can offer to help me out of this expensive error. I wasRead more
Ouch, that sounds like a very unfortunate turn of events! Its been my experience that cupped boards can be pretty hard to straighten back out. I do not believe that simply drying them (or otherwise adjusting the moisture content) will be the standalone solution. You might try a combination of weight and lowering moisture content. Maybe someone else can chime in with better ideas.
While traveling the Great Lakes, I visited a colonial style boat building display. They were using a homemade steam box to heat the wood to allow it to be bent around the bow of the boat. Would it be possible to steam the boards, the lay them on a flat surface with good stripping and weight on the top to force them back straight?
Might salvage by planing thinner or squaring up 2-inch strips and edge-gluing. Not a bad look and done historically for more stable surface. Really, once boards have dried to a certain shape, they have taken on a set, which cannot be much reversed by adding or subtracting moisture in some way. If in early stages, maybe a little, but once cell walls harden up, cant really plump them up again. A good experiment is to take a thin, partially-seasoned, plain-sawn Pine board, throw it on a moist lawn on sunny day and see how fast it cups. Turn it overRead more
Honestly I would advise getting them as wet as possible then weighing them down heavy and letting them dry, steaming would be most effective followed by weight. Ive straightened tons of wood up to 2 inches thick by soaking then then re drying with weight.
At what mc can I do the heat treatment? Looked all over and cant find this info. I only mill Burl and usually a/d but just started kiln drying to kill powder post beetle. My first batch is down to 8% and the larger turning blanks are at around 12%. I dont need it any dryer and in a rush for the next load. I work exclusively with madrone/big leaf maple Burl. I should note most of this Burl is air dried in the whole from 3yrs-40yrs, its very stable but I worry that the high heat may be harmfulRead more
Do you mean its Pressure treated and its wet? this article is in reference to green lumber thats been cut from a recently live tree. green is usually used in reference to Pressure treated in home construction. If so, leave that bad boy in the sun for an hour or so, the slime will dry off quick, just be sure to install them not long after.
Drying bowls is a different process than flat slabs of wood. Ive always used the double paper bag method. Keep rough turned bowl inside a paper bag (or double bag for sensitive species) and then weigh it intermittently until the piece stops loosing (water) weight. After that, it should be ready for final turning.
Several good schools o f thought here I turn wet Cherry to the finished dim and shape then use planer chips from a hardwood (Walnut) pack the piece tightly in these shavings in a paper bag and inspect a month later. Uaually I win! Dont cheat, wait a full month plus!
I have some large Black walnut trees in my yard & occasionally they lose limbs of big enough size to have what I would consider usable material. Meaning if the bark were removed I would still have a piece with a minimum Diameter of 4 I am just a hobbyist but would like to make some Pistol grips or even gun stocks with some of this lumber. I am certain I havent dried it out properly over the years as I just kinda piled it up out of the way. But this year there have been some bigger limbs comingRead more
I believe that kiln drying walnut actually causes some colors to be lost, your best bet, with regards to color, is to air dry the material. Walnut color is highly variable depending on growing conditions. Are you sure that the other stuff that youve used was heartwood? Sapwood is a pale gray color and can take up at least a few inches of the outer edge of the stem.
I will be sawing beams from sourthern pine for timber frame . 68- 610 . Up to 30ft . Have dehumidifier room set up for short lumber up to 10 what would be the best plane of attack to bring this size timber down to a workable moisture level ?
A year for each inch in thickness is the standard drying time for all timber. But it will depend on were it is to be used as to the target mosture content around 11% for internal use and 15%- 20% for use outside.
I just got 2 8 ft long planks of wood with crusty bark on the edges. Id like to preserve the bark. Should I seal the ends with something while it dries? I plan slow on drying it in my house and then making shelves with the wood. Any other advice about drying or working with these planks is appreciated. is appreciated.
Hi. I recently acquired two dozen or so logs of silver maple. I sealed the ends with end grain dealer within about 24 hours of them being cut down. Id like to turn them into wood turning blanks for bowls and other various projects but dont have time yet to cut them down or turn them. Do you think the logs will be alright stored in my garage for a few weeks/months in log form before I can get to them all with a chainsaw?
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Introduction This drying machine is widely used for the heating and dehumidification of raw materials and products in pharmaceutical, chemical, foodstuff, light and heavy industries. Eapecially for the Fish fruit and vegetable food processings. Suit for factory,restaurant,school ,farm and so on. Application 1. Our this series stainless steel multi-function drying machine can dry all kinds of materials,such as meat,vegetables,fruits,spice,sea cucumber,herbs, onions,gingers,tea leaves etc. 2. Used for drying Chinese herbal pieces, dissolved medicines, powder,crude drug,Drug packing bottle,pigment,dyestuff,dehydrated vegetables ,food, plastic resin, paper, leather,wool, electrical apparatus element ,salts,catalyst etc. 3.Suit for factory,restaurant,school ,farm and so on. 4.suitable for all kinds of food material,seafood drying such as seaweed, dried fish, shrimp, squid, fish fillet, sea cucumber, abalone,also apply to the bamboo shoot, mushroom, spices,garlic, tea leaf, flowers, sophora flower bud, dried fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, sweet potato, corn, peas, beans, coconut, nuts, dried black fungus and other agricultural and sideline products, as well as the honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, rhubarb, red sage root, ginseng and other Chinese herbal medicine drying. Working Principle This dryer was upgraded and regenerated for several times and has reached advanced level both at home and all over the world. After being filtered by the primary filter fixed at the air inlet, the clean air will be blown into the drying chamber and flow towards the electrical heater. Then the heated air will be evenly distributed to each layer of trays. The hot air penetrates through the raw material via the holes punched at the tray bottom to evaporate the moisture from the raw material. Some of the moisture will be exhausted through the exhaust vent and new fresh air will be brought in to supplement the circulation air. Charcteristics 1. New designed energy saving dryer with two times waste heat recovery.Low working noise ,stable working condition,automatic temperature control system,easy to install and maintain. 2.automatic temperature control system,easy to install and maintain. 3. The drying oven can be made of carbon steel, stainless steel according to the required. 4. The final water content can be <1%. 5. Most of hot air circles in the sealed oven,high heating efficiency and energy-saving. 6. Having forced ventilation function and equipped with adjustable wind separator plates, high drying evenness. 7.Dryer machine adopts special design, making the heating efficiency 3-7% increase compared to the current 35-45%, the highest thermal efficiency can reach 50%. 8.During drying, the material does not craze, does not distortions, non-discoloring, never degenerate, non-oxidize, drying completely, with good rehydration, keep nutrient content; 9. Automatic control system and computer control system for your choice. 10. Having forced ventilation function and equipped with adjustable plates, drying evenly. 11.Temperature allowed with20C-200C according to your requirements. Stable operation without being influenced by weather 12. You can freely choose coal,wood,electricity,gas as the heating source. Technical Parameter: Model Number of Trolley Capacity per batch Power kw TCBD-2 2 400-600kg 1.75 TCBD-4 4 800-1200kg 2.25 TCBD-6 6 1200-1800kg 3.16 TCBD-8 8 1600-2400kg 3.56 TCBD-10 10 2000-3000kg 4.18 TCBD-12 12 3000-4000kg 4.55 TCBD-24 24 5000-7000kg 7.58 Any change of technical data shall not be advised additionally.
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