Why didnt my new dryer come with a cord? Years ago the national electric code said that all mobile homes had to put in a four-wire system, then later they said that all houses had to have a four-wire system. This means that all houses made before they passed the law have a three-wire plug for the dryer and after they passed the law all houses and mobile homes have a four-wire plug for the dryer. So you must buy the cord separate so that you will have the right cord for your home. Some appliance dealers will give you the cord that you need and some will charge you extra for it. I just moved and my old dryer has a three-wire cord but my new house has a four-wire plug, where can I get an adapter? There is no such thing, you need to change the cord on your dryer to a four-wire cord. Do not attempt to change the plug because your house has a four-wire system. This page will help with that Dryer cord installation Dryer cords can be found at AppliancePartsPros.com.
How often should I clean the lint trap of my dryer? Each time you use your dryer the lint trap must be cleaned. How often should I clean my dryer vent? You must clean your vent out once a year. This is very important! a clogged vent will be a fire hazard and can reduce the life of your dryer. Why is the top of my dryer getting hot when I dry clothes? If the top of your dryer is getting hot, the vent is most likely stopped up so check the vent. How long can my dryer vent be? Most manufactures say 60 feet but every time you make a 90-degree turn you must subtract 10 feet so I would say for most applications not more than 30 feet. I opened the door of my dryer, pressed the door switch and started it up. I could see the heater glowing but it only stayed on a few seconds, is this normal? Believe it or not this is one of the most frequent asked questions about dryers. First you should never do such a thing because this tells you nothing. You probably did this because the dryer is not drying clothes properly. So check the vent. If the vent is clear refer to back my dryer repair guide for instructions on how to repair this. My dryer is not that so old why is it broken down already? I get this question about dryers more than any other and my answer is always the same. Every appliance breaks down some on the same day you buy it and others in 20 years. Also appliances have always broken down. Yes I will agree that appliances are not made as good as they used to be. The average life of most appliances now days is about 8 to 12 years, whereas it used to be about 10-20 years. But you have to think that the cost of appliances now is about the same as it was 20 years ago, yet labor and materials are higher. So the only way they can still sell appliances at low prices is to cut quality. Also appliances do more than they used to therefore, more to go wrong.
Here they are, the dirty dozen. The 12 most commonly asked laundry questions. Oh sure, I get the occasional oddball question about removing kangaroo blood from a shirt or how to dye a wedding dress hot pink. But most of the questions fall into a more commonly asked list of day-to-day laundry issues:
Over time white clothes and linens can become dingy or yellowed from redeposited soil, dye transfer from other garments, missed stains and even using too much bleach. The key to keeping white clothes is looking bright is preventing them from discoloring in the first place.
Removing a set-in stain is more difficult because the heat of a dryer binds the stain more tightly to the fabric fibers. Begin by following the original tips for removing the stain. Give the stain remover plenty of time to work. Don't rush through the steps.
If that doesn't work, mix a solution of oxygen-based bleach and cool water. Follow the package directions as to how much product per gallon of water. Completely submerge the stained item and allow it to soak for at least eight hours. Check the stain. If it is gone, wash as usual. If it remains, mix a fresh solution and repeat. It may take several soakings to remove the stain but this method is your best bet for success.
Adding coffee to the rinse water to keep black clothes black won't work! However, adding a cup of white distilled vinegar to the rinse cycle will help remove detergent residue which dulls fabric. It will also relax the fibers of the clothes so lint doesn't adhere as badly. Lint definitely dulls the look of a garment.
Dye transfer happens. A lone red sock hides in a load of white clothes. Careless sorting (learn how to do it correctly) turns a yellow shirt into a blue jean-tinged pea green. Removing the dye stains takes a bit of time but these tips will work for both white and colored clothes that now look tie-dyed.
The yellow underarm stains that happen on white clothes are caused by a reaction of normal body oils and salts from perspiration and the ingredients in deodorants and antiperspirants. The stains actually happen on dark shirts as well, you just can't see the staining as prominently.
First, let me say that I'm no appliance repair expert. But I have done a few repairs and my father could fix just about anything. He might have a few extra parts left over but it worked! I get lots of questions about washers and dryers that don't work so I do have a few tips and some information that will help.
While laundry appliances have come a long way since that rock beside the stream, it is still our responsibility to be sure a washer produces its best results. It's a bit like driving a car. Sometimes the car malfunctions, sometimes it is the driver that misuses the car.
Front-loading washers can develop odors if moisture or detergent residue becomes trapped in the machine. The same thing can happen to top-loaders and in both models, automatic dispensers can become clogged. A clean machine is the first step to clean laundry. Neglecting a dryer can result in more than laundry problems, it can cause fires that destroy homes.
Most fabric, just by its very nature, is absorbent. It absorbs moisture and odors like perspiration, smoke, perfume, cooking, and musty odors. Odor removal steps depend on the origin of the odor and the fabric content of the clothes.
But what about those grease stains that seem to appear after clothes are washed and dried? Those are not really grease stains but are actually a build-up of fabric softener or residue from dryer sheets.
Vintage baby clothes, quilts, and table linens hold a special place in our hearts. It is so disappointing to find brown spots that spoil the overall look. These stains can be caused by leftover food or body soil stains on the fabric or reactions between the fabric with wood acids. No matter the cause, we still want to see them gone.
Whirlpool is a leading brand name when shoppers are looking for a washer or dryerin the United States. As with any type of home appliance, there can be problems with any dryer model (such as Duet or Cabrio) and a need for repairs.
Calling a repair technician can be expensive and time-consuming. There are many problems that you can solve yourself by consulting the troubleshooting tips on the Whirlpool website. With just a few tools and a bit of knowledge, your dryer can be working again.
An interior drum light may not be essential to the dryer's operation, but it isvery helpful. Without an interior light, it is easy to make the mistake of leaving clothes, including single socks, in the drum.
A dryer's door latch or switch and the interior light control electrical systems are on the same circuit. If the door switch is not working properly or has been replaced, the wiring of the interior drum light may not havebeen done correctly or the wiring has come loose. Check and correct the circuit wiring issues and you should have light.
Unfortunately, the beeping is a result of a bad control panel. Unplugging or resetting the dryer will not solve the problem. The board will need to be replaced. If you are handy with tools and electronics, you can avoid a service call if you do the work yourself tosolve the beeping. To help you access the control panel, you shouldconsult arepair manual.
The buzzing noise is usually caused by something that is binding the drum and keeping it from turning freely. Remove the housing and make sure that the drum belt is intact, check that the drum is balancedand that the drum bearings are not worn.
The short-run cycle is an electrical problem. To diagnose the issue, check each electrical component with a voltage meter to see if they are receiving the correct amount of current. Start with the timer switch and check each electrical part independently and replace any defective components. It is also a good idea to check the thermal fuse. This fuse is what turns off a dryer to prevent fires if the temperature swings wildly in the dryer.
Dryers are fairly simple machines. They work by tossing clothes about so that heated air reaches all the surfaces. The moisture is then extracted through a vent system. If the dryer drum is not turning, it will take much longer for the pile of clothes to dry.
The drum is turned by a pulley or belt system. If the drum is not turning, most likely the drum belt has either broken or slipped off its track. A replacement will involve removing the outer housing so the interior of the dryer can be accessed. Dryer belts are inexpensive and easy to replace if you are handy with tools.
I have read your classification of hygroscopic and non-hygroscopic resins and I am interested in physical dimension that tells me how fast moisture is absorbed or removed by a specific resin and how much moisture can be absorbed by them.
There is not a physical dimension that determines moisture adsorption rate or the total amount that can be held by a resin.There are a number of things that enter into the discussion.Please go to this link for a detailed explanation.
Dryers today are much more energy efficient than dryers in the past and have a number of features that make them easy to use. Either dual bed or wheel dryers perform well, but wheel dryers have a much more consistent dew point and temperature that lends it well to preform manufacturing (where the machine (often Husky) requires very consistent temperature to the machine throat for the best preform production). Ive included a Data Sheet on Novatecs IntelliPET dryer that is specifically designed for preform production and consistency. It includes variable frequency drives so that the power varies in relationship to the material rate and thus has lower energy use than older models.
If the regrind is preform regrind it can generally be added in the processing up to 10-15% without much change in the hardware. If the regrind is re-pelletized, it can be used much like virgin resin but may have a slightly lower IV than the virgin. If the regrind is PCR (post-consumer) flake, there is more to consider. The PCR has already been through a heat cycle and has both a lower IV and a tendency to produce a considerable amount of volatiles that exit in the drying process and tend to contaminate the desiccant materials. This requires an additional treatment step on the hoppers return air to limit and desiccant contamination.
I am extruding PC sheets for hard luggage case; I have problem of breaking shells after dropping; please kindly help me to find out the problem and suggest any solutions?I am using 70% resin and 30% regrind.
1. Resin isn't properly dried. Being its colored PC, they wouldnt see the air bubbles and thermoforming usually doesnt show the kind of surface splay you with injection molding. Sheet is thermoformed too hot.
Response: I have seen desiccant running well in service for over 10 years but the supplier guideline is 3-5 years. Desiccant normally fails due to poor filter maintenance or, in cases of high levels of volatiles, off-gassing from material. The best way to preserve desiccant is to change filters on a regular basis and always turn the dryer off when changing filters. There is no reason to change desiccant that is providing good dew point and airflow performance.
Response: My first recommendation is to install a good cyclone. Second make sure that your filter maintenance is good and that your filter changing procedure prevents dust from getting past the filter housing. Its also possible to reduce dust by installing several outlets in the top of the hopper. Multiple outlets balance the airflow in the hopper and helps reduce the velocity at each outlet. You can also weld a drop tube around the loader throat which contains the material causing it to flow slowly into the hopper at a steady state.
Response: Most companies use standard fiberglass insulation which has proven to have the best cost benefit ratio. There are many other materials available but they are much more expensive and perform marginally better. The goal is to limit the external skin temperature to a point where it is warm to the touch but will not burn you. Also, dont limit this to just the hopper. Some of the biggest savings weve seen is improper insulation of the heater boxes and piping and hopper cones.
Response: Yes it can be done but it is probably too expensive for the return on investment. You can put individual dampers on the inlet of each hopper to control airflow. If you add airflow sensors you will start spending more money but achieve better control.
Response: A Central Dryer produces -40 dew point process air but has no process heater. The dry air is piped to multiple drying hoppers, each having its own heater/blower. These hoppers can contain different resins in different colors. The heater/blower on each hopper is adjusted to match the drying temperature of the material in that hopper. The throughput of the central dryer is matched to the number of drying hoppers being served. A central drying system may consist of more than one central dryer, each serving multiple dryers. A central material conveying system typically feeds material to the drying hoppers and then, on to processing machines. A Quick Selection Manifold can be used to shuttle materials from any given material source to any given hopper so material changes occur at the drying hopper, reducing the time required for changeover. Central Drying Systems reduce:
Response: The use of a desiccant wheel requires a new dryer. If you have a dryer that works well now, it may be best to continue to use it and look at things like water flow control, cycle timing and insulation to improve the energy of the system. However, when you look at a dryer replacement or a new line, the opportunity becomes very attractive.
Response: Its not just time and temperature but also air flow rate and hopper design that needs to be considered. If the air flow is correct and the hopper is well designed to provide uniform air and material flow, PET processing usually does well with 4-6 hours at 320-350 F.
Question: We pre-dry all of our materials in a separate area out back and seem to have different molding problems throughout the year. Sometimes things run perfect for long periods of time, and then for no apparent reason, we start getting streaks, bubbles and other problems. What gives?
Response: There are several possible reasons for the problems you are having. It could be that the problems are related to the condition of your incoming material. In colder and dryer times of the year, when the air outside is dry, the material is already fairly dry. But, when the weather is humid, the material is more humid and your dryer must work harder to remove its accumulated moisture [see drying parameters]. An older, or outmoded dryer will have a more difficult time providing uniform drying results. Checkhow old your desiccant is and replace it if it is more than 2 years old. Make sure all heaters are operating at full capacity and, of course, the blowers of your dryer must be operating correctly. Make sure the process and regeneration filters are clean because dirty filters can reduce the airflow, which has a direct effect on the efficiency of the dryer.
Question: We have a central loading system circa 1998. All make up air from the dryer supply trunk line to the collector plenums have been disconnected. Make up air ports on the collectors are open to atmosphere. Ports on the dry air trunk are plugged. We run negative pressure in the hoppers by adjusting the dampers on the dry air supply and return lines. Q. How negative must we be on the hoppers to pull air through the hopper back to the dryer? At present, we are pulling atmospheric air into the drying hopper.
Response: Typically, drying hoppers operate at a positive pressure on the inlet and at a very slight vacuum to near neutral at the outlet. By restricting the inlet enough that the hopper operates at a vacuum, you may be limiting the drying air to the point that good drying may not occur and atmospheric air enters the hopper even adversely affecting drying further. Additionally, the vacuum in the hopper can lead to difficulties in the hopper discharging properly into the convey lines and limit the available capacity if the convey pumps. Is the dryer connected to more than one hopper? If so, I recommend that the primary restriction occurs at the hopper outlet rather than the inlet.
Response: Although PVC is typically not hydroscopic, the presence of moisture on the surface can lead to inconsistent processing and the requirement for adjustments in the Injection Molding Machine. The use of a Hot Air Dryer will remove the surface moisture and keep the PVC at a consistent temperature such that machine process parameters do not require as much monitoring and result in a more consistent product. There are also IMM parameters that can lead to bubbles in the PVC. Please contact your machine vendor for suggestions that they may have.
Question: I'm trying to explain to a client the finer points of resin drying and can not get a good answer to a question related to the return air temperature of a dryer and how it affects desiccant performance. How does high return air temperature experienced running PET affect the desiccant's ability to adsorb more moisture?
Response: The optimum performance of a desiccant occurs at near ambient temperatures. Temperatures in excess of this lower the desiccant capacity and require that the air be cooled before going to the desiccant. This cooling of the air, for better adsorption, means that you have heated the air unnecessarily and thrown that heat into cooling water which requires more process heat to be re-added. Novatecs Power Guard systems continuously monitor the return air temperature and adjust the process air flow for optimum drying and the minimum energy usage through a patented process that also adjusts the set point based on resin temperature.
Question: The dispute is about Cactus dryers. I will not use them because they only use ambient air passed over heaters. I have heard they do not work well unless it is only surface moisture. I cannot find any data that supports their drying claims. Am I currect in my assumption that they cannot dry ie PU weel enough or be consistent in an extrusion tubing process.
Response: The Cactus is typical of hot air dryers with the exception that it uses compressed air instead of blower power to move the air. Because of this, it will be slightly lower in dew point, at times, if your compressed air is very dry. However, it will not be more consistent than your plant Relative Humidity. This can be and issue, especially in the summer. When drying PU, it is usually important to control both the temperature and resin moisture to get consistent product flexibility and strength. There are other dryers that use compressed air and a membrane and develop very consistent processing of PU. The NovaDrier is a good example of these and it uses far less power and compressed air than any other of its kind. The dew point and temperature are consistent, year round.
Question: Im following the instruction manual, and everything seems to be working correctly but my PC is not drying completely. Im using a compressed air dryer and I was told that it would dry most materials under most conditions.
Response: Weve heard this story before. Unfortunately, you never know when the problem will crop up. Compressed air dryers only produce a dew point of about -10 degrees, under the best of circumstances, but summer temperatures or high humidity can push the dew point up to +10 or +20 degrees. Thats when you notice defects in your molded products.
First, I think you should call the manufacturer of your dryer and see if there is any way to return it, depending on how old it is and what your warranty says. If that is not possible, ask if they have a membrane option. If you buy the membrane option and install it, you will get -40dew point process air and that should solve the current problem.
Note that regular compressed air dryers consume a lot of compressed air and when you add an optional membrane, the compressed air usage goes even higher. Next time you buy a dryer, consider one with a built-in membrane to save lots of energy and be guaranteed that you can dry all resins, regardless of the time of year.
We recommend a compressed air dryer for almost all compressed air applications. This is because condensation forms in the compression process of compressed air. This condensation (water) has a harmful effect on your compressed air line network, machines and tools. The use of a compressed air dryer is necessary to protect your production.
Cooling dryers use a cooling gas to cool the compressed air and then remove the water condensate from the air. With this technique we can reach a temperature of at least 3C. ALUP dryers are equipped with R134a, R410A or R45A cooling gas. This gas has the lowest possible environmental impact, and no influence on the ozone layer.
A cooling dryer is the most used dryer for compressed air. By cooling the temperature back to around 3C, most of the moisture is removed and the compressed air is suitable for 90% of the applications. ISO 8573-1: 2010 purity class 4 is met by using a cooling dryer.
The use of an adsorption dryer is desirable when the compressed air must have an even lower pressure dew point. Adsorption dryers have a pressure dew point between -20C, -40C or -70C. Adsorption drying is often used in applications for the food, pharmaceutical, medical and chemical sectors.
These common questions about dryers are the ones our experts hear the most often from our customers. You might also find the help you need by checking thecommon symptomsand solutions for dryers. When youre ready to make a repair, search your model number to find replacement parts. Sears PartsDirect has the partyou need, no matter where you bought your dryer.
A gas dryer that heats up when you start it but then stops heating could have a clog or other restriction in the exhaust air duct system. The exhaust air stays near the operating thermostat or thermistor, keeping the dryer from heating properly. Check the flexible vent behind the dryer for a kink or a lint clog. Check for lint buildup in the air ducts running to the outside your home. Make sure the damper on the exit vent outside your home opens easily.
If the exhaust air path is clear, you might need to replace the gas valve coils, following the steps in thegas valve coil repair guide. Weak gas valve coils operate properly from a cold start but fail to open the gas valve during subsequent ignition attempts.
A broken heating element, a damaged operating thermostat, a blown thermal cut-off fuse, a failed high-limit thermostat, or a bad motor switch can also impair heating. Once you find the cause of your failure, use the appropriatedryer repair guideto replace the defective component.
Check the exhaust vent duct path to the outside of your home, starting with the flexible vent hose behind the dryer. Make sure the flexible vent isnt kinked or clogged. Check the duct system going to the outside of your home and clean the duct system if necessary. Make sure the damper for the duct system on the outside of your home opens properly.
Hopefully you saved the natural gas orifice originally installed in your gas dryer. If not, order the natural gas orifice and any other natural gas parts that were removed to convert the dryer to liquid propane (LP) gas. Refer to the LP Conversion Kit Instructions for your dryer to determine the parts that you need. A qualified installer should complete the natural gas conversion to ensure that the dryer is safe to use.
Some models of dryer have a ball-and-hitch bearing on the back of the dryer drum that supports the drum as it rotates. Check the parts diagram for your dryer to see if your dryer drum is supported by a ball-and-hitch system. If so, unplug the dryer and lift the top panel of the dryer. Manually spin the drum to determine if the ball-and-hitch bearing is squeaking. If the bearing is making the noise, buy and install the bearing kit to replace the worn bearing.
Most automatic drying systems intentionally leave the clothes very slightly damp to prevent shrinking, wrinkles and damage to garments. Some dryers allow you to adjust the dryness setting in the automatic cycle to dry the clothes completely. Check your owners manual for instructions if your dryer has that feature. If not, then you can tumble the clothes for a few minutes longer using a timed cycle to finishing drying the load.
Bluing of the dryer drum is caused by dye transfer from clothing, typically from blue jeans or similar garments. The heat inside the drum and the tumbling cause the blue dye to rub off on the inside of the drum. This dye transfer is normal. The dye on the drum doesnt transfer to garments during subsequent cycles.
A dryer with the Evenheat features uses an electrical relay to keep the dryer motor running after you push the Start button. The problem isnt the Start buttona defective motor relay or defective Evenheat electronic control board is preventing the dryer from continuing to run. Replace the motor relay to fix this problem since its less expensive than the Evenheat control board. If the problem persists, then replace the Evenheat control board. Unplug the dryer before accessing and replacing internal components.