mercruiser 350 mag mpi fuel water separator

how to change your mercruiser water separating fuel filter

how to change your mercruiser water separating fuel filter

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fuel water separator filter--2008 sig 330 - boat talk - chaparral boats owners club

fuel water separator filter--2008 sig 330 - boat talk - chaparral boats owners club

I just purchased this boat and want to do as much of the maintenance myself as I can. It has Merc, 350 mag motors. The fuel water separator is not the spin on type, but rather a cartridge that looks to be screwed in to a square container on the starboard side of the motors. The my old dealer is out of business and the closest one is two hours from me. Does anyone know the part number of these filters and where they can be purchased online? Also, anything special I need to know about changing them? I always hate to run into those "that would have been nice to know ahead of time" situations after the fact.

Remove the cover screws and pull the old filter. Inspect the screen at the bottom of the cavity before re-installing the new element. Change out the cover o-ring, and fill the cavity with fuel. Do not over tighten the cover screws.

Remove the cover screws and pull the old filter. Inspect the screen at the bottom of the cavity before re-installing the new element. Change out the cover o-ring, and fill the cavity with fuel. Do not over tighten the cover screws.

Also have 08 350 Mag........should changing water separator filter be my last winterizing task........after I have changed oil, drained block and filled with AF while at same time running engine on fogging cocktail? Fill with treated(stabilizer) gas or fogging mixture? Thanks

Remove the cover screws and pull the old filter. Inspect the screen at the bottom of the cavity before re-installing the new element. Change out the cover o-ring, and fill the cavity with fuel. Do not over tighten the cover screws.

The filter element and cool fuel reservoir are on the suction side of the dual fuel pumps. As the anti-siphon valve will negate any drainage from the fuel tank, and there is no pressure in the pump suction cavity (actually runs under a very slight vacuum) there is no need to bleed off the fuel pressure. If you are servicing the pumps, fuel rail, regulator or injectors, then you will need to de-pressure the system.

The filter element and cool fuel reservoir are on the suction side of the dual fuel pumps. As the anti-siphon valve will negate any drainage from the fuel tank, and there is no pressure in the pump suction cavity (actually runs under a very slight vacuum) there is no need to bleed off the fuel pressure. If you are servicing the pumps, fuel rail, regulator or injectors, then you will need to de-pressure the system.

Using a 10mm swivel socket on a 1/4" ratchet works best I find. After we have changed the engine oil and oil filter, we add EFI mix to this cavity and then run the engine for a short period of time to protect the fuel pumps, rails, and injectors over the winter.

Using a 10mm swivel socket on a 1/4" ratchet works best I find. After we have changed the engine oil and oil filter, we add EFI mix to this cavity and then run the engine for a short period of time to protect the fuel pumps, rails, and injectors over the winter.

Thanks Shepherd! You have been most helpful with the part numbers on my new boat. A couple questions, what cocktail do you use in the cavity of this cool fuel filter and how long do you run the engine to ensure it coats the internal engine parts but doesn't run out? Secondly, is this all you fog the engine with? I've heard stories of unhooking the fuel lines and running a mixture for 10 minutes from a separate tank, which I really want to avoid. Thanks, Greg

The cool fuel filter element is a bunch of money, and with quality fuel will last at least 2 seasons. I ran mine for 4, and cut the old one apart, only to find nothing. I use a pint of Mercury 2 cycle oil, 8 oz. of Marine Stabil, and one gallon of fresh mid-grade gasoline. I run the engine sucking from this gallon for 20 minutes to ensure that the cool fuel chamber has been purged, and that the fuel pumps, pressure regulator, rails, injectors, and cylinder internals are well coated. You will know when the mixture reaches the engine as the smell changes and the idle gets a little snotty. It's all good.

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