raymond yard

raymond yard inc. | antique jewelry university

raymond yard inc. | antique jewelry university

A distinguishing design feature of Yard jewelry was the extensive use of mixed-cut andsingle-cutdiamondsin his pieces. Yard aimed for an overall luminous elegance rather than a sharp brilliance; a look that did not overwhelm the design. Although he followed the design motifs of the time, this technique distinguished his style from that of other well-known jewelry firms such asTiffany & Co.andCartier.

Another characteristic that personified Raymond Yard was his generosity and his scrupulous dealings with his customers, employees, and suppliers. Attesting to this, he was honored on the tenth anniversary of his company by a gift of a large engraved clock given to him by seventy-three of his suppliers, manufacturers and gem dealers. The doors were inscribed:

The first house brooch was introduced in 1932 and by the 1960s, well to do clients were bringing in photographs of their homes to be turned into exquisite jeweled replicas. The most elaborate of these was an astonishing reproduction of Cee Zee Guests lavish Villa Artemis in Palm Beach.

As the 1930s progressed into the 1940s, the prevailing design preference moved away from shield shapes into curvilinear designs with folds of ribbons and scrollwork. Dress clips were no longer ascendant and many more single brooches were being worn. Calibr-cut stones were less utilized in the newer curvilinear shapes particularly as precious stones were in sparse supply during the war years. This scarcity also manifested itself in inventive designs that now featured large areas of unembellishedmetal. The most marked change of these years however, was Yards extensive use of yellowgoldand a new array of colored stones such astopaz,amethystsandmoonstones. During this period, Yards attention shifted from the design influences ofCartierto the newly prominent firm ofVan Cleef & Arpels. The most noticeable example of this was the small group of Southern Belles that were produced in direct reference to Van Cleef & Arpels iconic ballerina brooches.

The limited supply of precious stones and the shift to yellow gold, as a result of World War II, led to an extensive use of less traditional stones such as moonstone, coloredsapphiresand amethysts. Moonstones accented by colored sapphires were particularly popular in a unique yellow gold Yard buttercup flower design, which centered a moonstone surrounded by smaller colored sapphires or rubies.

As the Fifties progressed, platinum and diamond bracelets were again in favor as were simpler gold and diamond bracelets. Yard bracelets in the Sixties were primarily made in yellow gold and placed a greater emphasis on individually mounted stones. Modern Yard bracelets are based on the classic designs of the 1920s, often reinterpretations of the traditional line and geometric link bracelet.

As the 1950s arrived, many of the earrings Yard produced were of the popular snowflake design, centering a larger center stone encircled by stone accents. Many of these earrings looked like smaller versions of their brooches and often they could double as a pair of dress clips. The era also saw the continued modification of the up-lobe design that became more elaborate as a double-ribbon loop that extended both above and below the central stone. While most designs were executed in platinum, yellow gold ear clips continued to be made throughout this period with their diamonds mounted in platinum.

The 1960s and 1970s continued the design trends of the Fifties but with drop earrings making a larger comeback as well. Current day designs reflect a preference for the more elaborate drop earring designs of the Twenties.

During the war years of the Forties,palladiumwas substituted for platinum in many of their cocktail rings and Yard, as part of his war-time contribution, launched a line of relatively inexpensive diamond rings featuring a diamond center stoneunder a carat, with two small side diamond accents. Needless to say, these proved quite popular with the servicemen of the time. Yellow gold rings of the period featured a variety of large sized colored stones, including moonstone,citrineand amethysts set in bold, tailored settings. Joan Crawfords step-cut amethyst ring of approximately seventy-five carats is a wonderful and famous example of this trend.

Yard Country USA Era e.1922 Categories: ALL, Y Tags: Y A R D, YARD Additional Information Description Specialties 1898 Messenger at Marcus & Co. Took jewelry making classes at night and trained at Marcus & Co. during the day. 1902 Began to string pearls for Marcus & Co. 1906 Promoted to Salesman working his way to General Manager 1920s Established his own firm. Created his own distinctive style. 1930s Extensive use of platinum. High quality gemstones i.e. Kashmir sapphires and Burma rubies. 1940s War years resulted in a change to yellow gold and palladium with semiprecious stones. 1950s Return to platinum. Used some imported French yellow gold mountings for brooches and bracelets. 1958 Raymond Yard retired. He turned the firm over to 3 of his employees. 1960s Moved the firm to 580 Fifth Ave. Introduced baguettes set with claws. More French mountings used. Classic Yard styles and new styles made the firm prosperous. 1970s Abstract designs, metal featured. 1989 Firm taken over by Robert Gibson Jr. (son of one of the 3 Yard employee successors.)

raymond yard jewels a collectors guide | christie's

raymond yard jewels a collectors guide | christie's

Born the son of a railroad conductor in New Jersey in 1885, the famed jeweller Raymond Yard began his career aged 13 when William Marcus Elder, the owner of the exclusive jewellers Marcus & Co., offered him the job of errand boy at his Manhattan boutique. Over the course of 20 years service Yard rose to become the firms most sought-after salesman, renowned for his honesty and knowledge.

Eventually John D. Rockefeller Jr. one of the worlds wealthiest men at the time advised Yard to go it alone, and in 1922 he opened his first store on Fifth Avenue. He served more than 1,000 customers in his first year, and four years later moved to larger premises on the same street.

In 1940 David Rockefeller purchased this ring set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond, weighing approximately 5.63 carats, with epaulet and triangular-cut diamond shoulders, from Raymond Yard. He presented the ring to Peggy McGrath upon their engagement. In 1959 the ring was returned to Raymond Yard, who altered the design, integrating additional diamonds on either side of the centre diamond. Sold for $287,500 on 12 June 2018 at Christies in New York

Through Rockefellers connections, Yard was introduced to some of the wealthiest people in America. The Vanderbilts, the DuPonts and the Woolworths all admired his jewels, explains Christies Jewellery specialist Jacqueline DiSante.

Over the decades Yards reputation continued to rise as he secured commissions from Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Douglas Fairbanks. He retired in 1958, passing control of the company to Glen McQuaker, Donald Bartow and Robert Gibson.

Yard gained a reputation for using the most exquisite metals and superlative stones. In fact, says DiSante, his clients trusted his perfectionism so much that they were willing to wait for him to find the perfect gems to complete their jewels.

Yards earliest work took Art Deco designs to new heights. By carefully selecting geometric-cut coloured stones in combination with step and brilliant-cut diamonds, he could create bold and unique arrangements that spoke to the tastemakers of the 1920s and 30s, DiSante continues. Yard was also known for breathing life into old gems by repurposing them from old settings into new ones.

During the war resources were limited, and Yard adapted his designs to incorporate gold and white gold, as opposed to platinum. Yard also started working with semi-precious stones and new colour combinations.

Top-quality pieces by Yard are scarce on the secondary market, explains DiSante. This is chiefly because Yard worked so closely on perfecting every piece of jewellery that left his atelier. His archival log books show that he meticulously documented every stones type, weight and origin.

As a result, Yard ensured each piece his workshop completed met his high standards for quality and refined craftsmanship, says the specialist. This, coupled with the fact that many of his jewels have American high-society provenance, makes them very desirable.

In 2017 Christies sold a Raymond Yard ring commissioned in 1948 by David Rockefeller, John D. Rockefellers son. At its centre is a stunning 18.04 carat Colombian emerald taken from a brooch that belonged to Davids mother, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller.

The ring realised $5,511,500, which remains the highest price paid for a piece of Raymond Yard jewellery at Christies. At $305,000 per carat, it also set a world auction record price per carat for an emerald. This ring is the epitome of chic and demonstrates both the Rockefellers and Yards keen eye for quality, adds DiSante.

His Art Deco pieces are also highly collectable, as well as his memorable designs of animals, including fish and birds, and his ever-popular rabbit character, which often wears a bow tie and carries cocktails or golf clubs.

raymond yard jewellery - kaleidoscope effect

raymond yard jewellery - kaleidoscope effect

From Raymond Yard decorations can be learned not only the history of jewelry art of the twentieth century, but also the evolution of American tastes. From Art Deco to the space design of the 60s, from strict classical forms and large rings with moonstones to funny rabbits waiters To survive during the dry law in America, sense of humor, perhaps, was very helpful. Thanks to these relevant and certainly very expensive brooches, talented jeweler Raymond Yard has won eternal fame. In 1929, at the peak of the ban on the sale of alcohol, the jeweler has released a brooch in the form of rabbits waiters, these ornaments have become a kind of artists protest against the law. Rabbits waiters have become the hallmark of the brand, they are hunt for by the collectors all over the world. Diamond brooches by Raymond Yard

Raymond Yard started working very early at age 13, as an errand boy in a large jewelry house. His quick eye and a desire to learn, let the boy move up the career staircase. In 1922, with the assistance of John D. Rockefeller, Jr., he opens his studio on 5th Avenue in New York. Yard mainly worked for the richest family in New York, doing things for them in one piece. Among legendary families were the Rockefellers, Fleischmanns and Flaglers. His decorations are of the highest quality and unique sense of humor. Yard was intimately involved in every piece of jewelry that carried his name and expected perfection in the final product. With such limited production, high-quality groups of pieces by Raymond Yard rarely come up for auction.

raymond yard - designer spotlight | eragem's posts designer spotlights - eragem post

raymond yard - designer spotlight | eragem's posts designer spotlights - eragem post

I first learned about Raymond Yard when I wrote about the Christie's auction,The Collection ofPeggy and DavidRockefeller. That sale featured the gorgeous engagement ring that David gave to his beautiful bride Peggy in 1940, which was made by Yard.

By that time, it came as no surprise that David Rockefeller went to the designer for this most important jewel. Indeed, David's father, John D. Rockefeller, was the person who encouraged Raymond Yard to begin his own jewelry firm. Upon following his advice, Yard quickly became the Rockefeller's most important consultant for all things jewelry.

Raymond Yard began his career at the age of 13. He started out as the doorboy for New York's Marcus & Co. He opened the doors for clients of the elite luxury jewelry store on 17th and Broadway in Manhattan for a number of years.Over the next decade, he progressively learned the various aspects of the jewelry business.

In his final years at Marcus & Co., Yard became the company's most sought-after salesman. It was here that John D. Rockefeller found him and groomed him to become an entrepreneur. In 1922, upon the urging of his benefactor, Raymond Yard established his own jewelry firm in New York.

In the beginning, Yard catered to his conservative American clientele, favoringlarge diamonds and gemstones mountedin platinum with gemstone accents. Given its 1920s and 1930s beginnings, the firm specialized in Art Deco style, taking the style to a whole new level with their exquisite geometric renderings and gorgeous diamonds, rubies, and blue sapphires.

Eventually, Raymond Yard developed some more whimsical designs. His most iconic are his humanlike rabbits and his jeweled houses. The jeweled house above features what looks like a jade base (or sculpted emerald) for grass and platinum for the structure of the house and tree branches. The leaves and flowers on the tree are fashioned mainly of cabochon emeralds, rubies, and blue sapphires.

The tree also features faceted diamonds. A carved ruby bush and carved emerald bush stand beside the platinum porch and blue sapphire door of what looks like a church.The church also features ruby windows and an emerald belfry, as well as diamond siding and a diamond-studded spire.

His most famous rabbitsare his butlerrabbits, dressed in elaborate finery, carrying cocktail trays and towels, ready to serve the most prestigious of guests.He also fashioned bridal rabbits, fisher-bunnies, yachts-hares, and even British Royal Guards Bunnies.

Raymond Yard retired from his company in 1958, with theHerald Tribunedeclaring his career "fabulous." {source}He ceded his position to his protege, Robert Gibson. Gibson retired in 1989, leaving the company in the capable hands of his son, Bob Gibson.

Today, Raymond Yard continues to make jewelry based on the company's original designs. They continue to source the highest-quality gemstones and use time-honored jewelry-making techniques. These original designs are sold exclusively through Betteridge. Of course, collectors can always scour the web in search of auctions of Raymond Yard vintage pieces.

raymond c. yard jewelry | betteridge

raymond c. yard jewelry | betteridge

Raymond C. Yard is considered one of the great Art Deco jewelers, counting among his customers many of the families that defined American enterprise in the early 20th century, including the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, Woolworths and DuPonts. Using only the highest quality gemstones and the most exquisite platinum mountings, the company designed jewelry that not only took on an identifiable style of his own, but elevated the Art Deco aesthetic to a new level. Raymond Yard's original designs continue to be made today and sold exclusively at Betteridge.

raymond c. yard: the american dream

raymond c. yard: the american dream

One of the most influential jewelry designers of the early twentieth century, Raymond Carter Yard came from humble beginnings. Born in 1885 in Montclair, New Jersey, Yards father, William Yard, was a railroad conductor on the New Jersey-to-Manhattan track. His mother, Caroline Dehart, took care of the family.

During that era, it was common for everyone in the family to work and young Yard had a newspaper route. Along his delivery path he met jeweler William Herman Marcus, owner of Marcus & Co. in New York City. Marcus took the railroad into Manhattan to work every day and while on the train he became friendly with William Yard. The elder Yard came down with tuberculosis in 1897 and died soon after. But not before mentioning to his friend Marcus that he was concerned about what would happen to his family after his death.

Marcus offered Raymond Yard a job opening doors and running errands for his store. Although he was only 13 years old, Yard accepted the job in Manhattan. He moved to the City with his mother, who worked as a cleaning lady. The job at Marcus & Co. changed Yards life and started him on his career path.

Raymond Yard didnt choose the jewelry industry, comments Robert M. Gibson, president, Raymond C. Yard Inc., whose father was president of the firm before him and was personally mentored by Yard. It chose him. He had talents he didnt know that he had. His ambition was to be the best that he could be.

Working by day, Yard studied jewelry making at night and learned all aspects of jewelry, from production to sales. He eventually became a sales associate at Marcus & Co., with a strong high-society following that included John D. Rockefeller, Jr. In 1922, encouraged by Rockefeller, Yard opened a store at 522 Fifth Avenue. Rockefeller referred his friends to Yard and soon the young jeweler had an elite following of some of the most prominent families of the day, including names such as Vanderbilt, Woolworth, DuPont and Harriman. Hollywood also recognized Yards talent and he counted Joan Crawford and Douglas Fairbanks as clients.

In the foreword to the coffee-table book Yard: The Life and Magnificent Jewelry of Raymond C. Yard, authored by Natasha Kuzmanovic, David Rockefeller writes: In the early 1920s, my father, John D. Rockefeller, Jr., met Raymond Yard, a young jewelry salesman at Marcus & Co. in New York. Impressed by his knowledge of fine jewelry and personal integrity, Father encouraged Raymond Yard to open his own firm. The two of them developed a close personal and professional relationship

Yard was generous of spirit and a true gentleman in all of his dealings with people, not just with his clients, but with his employees and vendors as well. He supported and helped to establish others in the business at a time when many craftspeople were coming to America and the industry was growing and vibrant. He had a reputation for being fair and kind. Yards gentlemanly manner and exquisitely crafted jewelry both contributed to his success.

A couple of things set Yard apart from other jewelers, observes Gibson. He was very restrained in his use of color. He used more diamonds and less color so that the color was strong, which made the jewelry very dramatic. He also mixed a lot of brilliant and step-cut diamonds, creating a juxtaposition of brilliance that made it easy to see the details in a piece.

Some of Yards most recognizable designs are his personified rabbit charms and brooches. The rabbits were designed as golf caddies and most famously, during the prohibition era, waiters carrying cocktails. These rabbits are highly collectable today.

Upon his retirement in 1958, Yard passed the company to Robert Gibson, who had been Yards golf caddy. Yard personally mentored Gibson, who had also lost his father at a young age, becoming not only a boss, but also a second father to him. Raymond Yard passed away in 1964. Gibson continued Yards tradition of fine jewelry making, later turning the firm over to his son, also named Robert Gibson.

We still use the same standards today as in the old days, concludes the younger Gibson. People love the experience of sitting down and discussing a piece of jewelry and building it from the ground up. They love being a part of the design process; its a very personal experience.

Want to speak to the designer and learn more about the piece? Interested in some potential modifications or perhaps you just want to have a wonderful story for your next family heirloom? Fill out the form and well arrange for you to speak with this designer.

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