sand washing machine will not drain

how to diagnose and fix washing machine drain problems

how to diagnose and fix washing machine drain problems

Drain problems with a washing machine fall into one of two categories: either the water will not drain out of the washing machine itself,or water does leave the machine but cannot flow properly through the drain pipes. A number of different specific problems can cause these general issues, and diagnosing them can be a tricky business. Some of the problems you can fix yourself, while others will likely require a call to an appliance repair person.

First, make sure to consult your washing machine's owner's manual. The troubleshooting section may give you suggestions for likely reasons for drain problems. Some modern washing machines display error codes that will identify the problem for you. If this doesn't identify the problem, observe your washing machine as it runs through one of its drain cycles. As you watch the machine in action, one of the following problems will likely be identified:

If you hear the washingmachine's pump operating but no water is leaving the machine, it is likely that the rubber drain hose running from the back of the machine to the drain standpipe or washtub is clogged with cloth fibers. This can sometimes happen after you wash items like rugs, which may shed a lot of fabric fibers, or if the drain hose is pinched.If the hose is clogged, it can prevent the water from being pumped out of the machine.

To test this, remove the drain hose attached to the washer and make sure it is clear. An easy way to check that the drain hose is clear is to blow air through it. If nothing is obstructing the drain tube, the problem is most likely at the washing machine pump. If the hose is worn or badly kinked, replacing the hose may improve the ability of the machine to pump water.

If you can hear the pump operating but it sounds like it is laboring, there may be a piece of fabric or another item obstructing the pump mechanism. To remedy this, you'll need to shut off and drain the machine, then remove the washing machine panel to examine the water pump. The pump itself may be clogged, or the clog might be in the corrugated tube that leads to the pump.

Ontop-loading washing machines, the pump is usually located on the back of the machine; on front-loaders, it is usually found on the front of the machine, below the door.Remove any visible lint from the filter screen and rinse it in water. Also, check the impellers on the pump and make sure they move freely and are not jammed with any obstruction. Reassemble the pump and cover panel, then test the machine.

If the pump is making no operating noise at all, or if you find no obstructions in the pump or drain hose, it is possible that your water pump has failed and will need to be replaced. This is normally a job for an appliance repair person, although it's possible for a skilled homeowner to order the part and perform the replacement.

The pump is operated by a drive belt that fits around pulleys on the bottom of the washing machine motor. If this belt is broken or isn't tight on the pulleys, the washing machine will have difficulty draining or may not drain at all. Fixing this will require you to turnmachine over on its side to examine the belt. Homeowners can do this themselves, although many opt for having a repair person handle a repair of this level.

Just under the lid or door on the washing machine, a small plastic switch serves to sense when the door is shut so the machine can operate. If this switch is faulty, the machine may fail to drain correctly. With the door open and the machine running, press the switch by hand and listen for a clicking sound. If you don't hear it, the switch may need replacing.

If water is successfully pumping out of the machine but is then spilling out of the drain stand tube or backing up in the washtub, then the problem is likely a traditional drain clog. Because small fabric fibers routinely are flushed through the system, it's common for drain clogs to occur in the plumbing pipes into which the washing machine drains. A clogged drain causes water to back up into the standpipe and spill on the floor. Clearing the clogged drain will usually resolve the problem.

The washing machine drain hose goes down about two feet into the plumbing drain standpipe. (In some machines, the drain hose may simply be clamped onto the side of a washtub, though this is not an acceptable practice anymore.) From there, the water then goes into a drain trap. The clog could either be in this trap area, or it could be further down the drain line.

To determine where the clog is located, first, fill the washing machine with water. Turn the dial to the spin/drain setting and get ready to drain it. Position yourself where you can see the drain standpipe while still having access to the washer dial. By watching the standpipe, you'll be attempting to see how long it takes the water to back up and out of the drain pipe.

Most people do not own the drain snakes necessary to clear these kinds of stoppages. Fortunately, they can be rented by the hour from home improvement and tool rental stores if you decide to do it yourself. Often there is a clean-out fitting behind the washing machine that can be used to snake out the drain pipes.

what causes a washing machine to not spin or drain? | diy repair clinic

what causes a washing machine to not spin or drain? | diy repair clinic

Opening the washing machine lid or door after the end of the wash cycle and discovering your clothes are still submerged underwater can really dampen your spirits. Before you invest in a vintage hand-cranked laundry wringer to squeeze out that water, you should troubleshoot the likely causes of the washer failing to drain or spin (hint: the two can be related). The solution to the problem can be quite simple, and the appliance replacement part you need can be relatively inexpensive and easy to install.

Once the agitation cycle is complete, the water will need to be drained from the tub. The washer control sends voltage to the drain pump which pumps the water out the drain hose to a free-standing laundry tub or standpipe. The pump may be driven by a belt attached to a motor drive pulley or the motor may direct drive the pump. On some top-load washer models, the motor will drive the pump by spinning in the opposite direction than it did during the agitation cycle.

Drive systems that assist in draining and spinning the tub can vary, even within top-load washer models. During the drain cycle, or immediately after, a brake releases and the motor spins the tub using a drive coupler, a belt, or a direct drive stator/rotor system. A variable speed control board will signal the motor to gradually increase the spinning speed. The faster the tub spins, the more effectively the water is removed from the clothing or linens.

Front-load washing machines will also send voltage to a drain pump that drains the water from the tub and forces it through the drain hose to a laundry tub or standpipe. One thing that differentiates a front-load washer from a top-load washer is the presence of a coin trap attached to the drain pump. This feature is designed to catch coins, keys, or other debris that may have been inadvertently left in pants pockets (most of the time, its trapping lint from clothing). A trap with too much debris can prevent the drain pump from successfully draining the water from the tub, so you should clean out the trap periodically.

Many front-load washer models use a direct drive system, with a stator located on the rear of the appliance, to spin the tub. The stator, energized by the voltage sent by the control, becomes an electromagnet which interacts with a rotor on the tub. The rotor has permanent magnets built into it, so the two components create a magnetic field which rotates the tub in each direction. Other front-load models use a motor, belt, and pulley to rotate the tub. A motor control board will regulate the amount and polarity of the voltage sent to the motor in order to affect speed and direction.

During the spin cycle, the speed of the rotation is increased dramatically. At the beginning of the spin cycle, the tub is rotated more slowly to allow the laundry to be evenly distributed, but as the cycle advances, the voltage is increased which results in a high-speed spin. Generally, front-load washers will spin faster than top-load models, a key factor in reducing drying time.

Whether you need to replace a damaged pump or hose for the washer to properly drain, or you need a new stator or belt to keep the tub spinning, Repair Clinic stocks original manufacturer parts that match the most popular top-load and front-load washer models, including those built by Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, Maytag, GE, Kenmore, Bosch, and Frigidaire. To find the right rotor, drive coupler, lid switch, clutch, or motor that fit your particular washer, enter the full model number of the appliance in the Repair Clinic website search bar. You can then use the part category and part title filters to refine your search to identify the exact part you need.

Start doing it yourself with the confidence that comes with 100+ years of experience. We've got millions of parts, hundreds of brands, and thousands of step-by-step videos everything you need to find it, fix it and finish the job right.

washing machine won't drain? here's how to unblock it | trusted reviews

washing machine won't drain? here's how to unblock it | trusted reviews

Spare a thought for the humble washing machine, slaving day and night to tackle the dirt from your dungarees and the smells from your smalls. Over time, all the fluff, dirt, fat and soap residue can build up on the insides of the unit, and before you know it your washing machine wont drain.

Washing machine blockages are a common problem. You might notice clothes that arent as dry after spinning, or a washing machine that wont drain fully if at all. In instances where a drain has become blocked, a machine may even flood when it empties. Although we can help you find the perfect new washing machine, with the following advice that may not be necessary at all, since it could provide a fix.

If your washing machine or washer dryer wont drain, youre likely to see water in the drum and you wont be able to open the door. The first step is to unplug the machine from the mains and get the water out. Before you start, find a large, flat tray, an old towel or two, and some containers empty plastic milk bottles are ideal. It might help to have someone else on hand to empty containers as you fill them.

With most new machines youll find a service hatch at the bottom of the front panel. Open it up and look for an emergency drain hose. If there isnt one, youll need to go to the back of the machine and unhook the main drain hose from the standpipe. Keep the end of it raised above the machine.

Place the flat tray under the drain hose to catch any small spills. Pinch the hose while you remove any plug from the end, then place it into a container, unpinch it and, if necessary, lower it below the water level in the machine water should start to pour out. If the machine is full, youll probably fill many containers before its empty. You might need to pinch or raise the hose while you switch.

Once the machine is drained, you need to look for the problem. Sometimes, its as simple as a lost coin blocking the pump. Behind the machines service hatch youll usually see a round access cap about the size of a biscuit put the tray under it to catch any water, then carefully unscrew and remove it.

This will reveal the pumps impeller. Wearing rubber gloves, reach your finger in, remove any obstacles and check that the impeller will turn; you may feel some resistance from the motor. Look in any openings near the impeller, but use care when unblocking them dont get your fingers stuck.

If theres a filter often attached inside the access cap remove any fluff, sludge or scale, then do the same inside the machine; a wipe with a damp cloth may be enough. Make sure that the screw threads and seal on the machine and cap are clean and free of any gunge, then screw the cap back on firmly, being careful not to cross-thread it. Wipe around the cap with tissue to ensure the area is fully dry.

Time for a quick test. Select a wash programme, start the machine, and allow it to fill for a short while before stopping it with the programme selector. Now select the drain programme and test whether it drains. If it does, skip to step five but first, check around the pump access hatch. If any water has seeped out then youll need to remove it, clean and refit it again. A small amount of Vaseline or petroleum grease will help to guarantee a water-tight seal.

Unplug the machine again and pull it forward if necessary to give you room round the back. Check the full length of the drain hose for any kinks or twists. If you dont see any, pull the hose from the standpipe and remove any obvious lumps of matter, then work along the hoses length, flexing it as much as possible to feel for any obvious blockages.

Next, check the outside of the standpipe for water if its wet there might be a blockage in the drain itself. A powerful drain cleaner might help here, but be careful when pouring it in if the drain is fully blocked, corrosive chemicals may overflow the pipe.

In all cases, be careful when you replace the hose in the standpipe. Dont push it in too far, and make sure theres a gap around it to allow trapped air to escape. Leave any drain cleaner time to work, then repeat the drain test from step three.

If your washing machine still wont drain, its probably time to call in the professionals. Before calling out repairers, double-check that the standpipe is draining properly; try quickly pouring several litres of water down it. If it still backs up, you might need a plumber instead.

Once your washing machine is draining properly, its a good idea to give it a thorough clean to clear out as much gunk as possible. First, empty the machine, set the hottest wash programme possible, add your normal detergent and let the programme finish. This will help dissolve fatty deposits and kill off mould and bacteria, both in the machine and in the standpipe.

Next, buy a washing machine descaler designed to be used in a one-off application, and follow the pack instructions to descale the machine. This will remove limescale from the heating element and other parts, and help prevent other material coalescing around it.

Prevent future blockages and extend the life of your machine with preventative maintenance. Consider a regular-use descaler such as Calgon to keep on top of limescale buildup, and every six months or so, follow the above procedure to clear the pump and filter.

You may also want to consider proactively using a sink unblocker in the standpipe but be aware that the chemicals are quite damaging to the environment; we wouldnt recommend it unless you know your standpipe has a habit of becoming blocked.

Editorial independence means being able to give an unbiased verdict about a product or company, with the avoidance of conflicts of interest. To ensure this is possible, every member of the editorial staff follows a clear code of conduct.

We also expect our journalists to follow clear ethical standards in their work. Our staff members must strive for honesty and accuracy in everything they do. We follow the IPSO Editors code of practice to underpin these standards.

Editorial independence means being able to give an unbiased verdict about a product or company, with the avoidance of conflicts of interest. To ensure this is possible, every member of the editorial staff follows a clear code of conduct.

We also expect our journalists to follow clear ethical standards in their work. Our staff members must strive for honesty and accuracy in everything they do. We follow the IPSO Editors code of practice to underpin these standards.

solved: why is my washer not going into the spin cycle and draining - kenmore 90 series washing machine - ifixit

solved: why is my washer not going into the spin cycle and draining - kenmore 90 series washing machine - ifixit

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not drain. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test each of the lid switches for continuity. If a lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

After the wash cycle ends and before the spin cycle starts, the water should drain from the washer. If water remains, first check for a kink or clog in the drain hose, a backup in the house drain system or in a drain hose lower than the water level in the drain tub. If the drain path is clear, the drain pump might have failed or the water-level pressure switch might not sense how much water is in the washer. In a top-load washer, a failed lid switch can keep the washer from advancing to the Drain & Spin cycle. One of the repairs below could solve the problem." I copied from

no the drill bit may not be common? (dirt and grime more likely.) pump not working is! also the drum belt wearing is common not enough tension to pull unbalanced load like new belt will (3-4 years old) cheep easy fix.

how to fix a washing machine that won't drain: step by step | hausette

how to fix a washing machine that won't drain: step by step | hausette

LID SWITCH A top-load machine will not drain if it thinks the door is open because the lid switch is not engaged. Locate the switch along the edge of your door and push it down. You should hear a click if its working or a light will illuminate on the display.

HOSE KINK The drain hose that runs from your washing machine can sometimes kink due to the machine moving. Inspect the hose for any bends or compression that would stop the water flow. Replace the line if you see any damage.

If a basic reset fails to fix the issue, about half of all machines have a master reset trick. Unplug the washer and wait the full minute. Plug it back in, and immediately open and shut the washing machine door six times within 12 seconds. This action should reset the primary sensors.

Clean out the trap by rinsing it in water, then reattach firmly to the drain line. Clean up any water, plug the machine back in, and test out the rinse/spin cycle to see if the machine drains. If not, there could be another clog elsewhere.

If you can pour a whole bucket of water through the line without it backing up, chances are the clog is free and you can reattach the hose to the machine, plug it in, and run the rinse/spin cycle to drain the water.

If water is flowing correctly, reattach the trap, stick the drain hose from the washing machine into the primary drain connection, plug in the washer, and run the rinse/spin cycle to drain the water from the tub.

Either way, its possible you need to try clearing the drain line from your washing machine with a moreindustrial snake machine(found at tool rental shops) that work by using the same Step 4 procedure.

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